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The Pakistani Prime Minister who drove a locomotive

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On 15 October 1962, US President John F. Kennedy (right, in rocking chair) meets with Pakistani Foreign Minister Bogra (centre) and Ambassador Aziz Ahmed (left) at the White House. —Abbie Rowe. White House Photographs. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.
On 15 October 1962, US President John F. Kennedy (right, in rocking chair) meets with Pakistani Foreign Minister Bogra (centre) and Ambassador Aziz Ahmed (left) at the White House. —Abbie Rowe. White House Photographs. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.

Mohammad Ali Bogra was serving as Pakistan's Ambassador to the United States when Governor-General Ghulam Mohammad nominated him Prime Minister. He succeeded Khawaja Nazimuddin, who had already been shown the door.

Bogra's nomination was widely rumoured to be the outcome of Washington's backing for him. Bogra also showed great deference to Ghulam Mohammad. A glimpse of his docility is found in Pakistan Kay Pehley Saat Wuzra-i-Azam, a book by Naeem Ahmed Khan et al. On page 73, under the heading ‘Pak-US Friendship; PM Drives Locomotive’, a passage reads:

“As a gesture of friendship, the United State gifted a few locomotives to Pakistan. The locomotives were to be received by the Governor-General in a formal ceremony. The Governor-General left in his car to the venue of the event, but Bogra chose to ride a motorcycle ahead of the car, acting as pilot rider. After they had arrived at the railway station where the locomotives were to be handed over to Pakistan, Bogra jumped onto an engine, wore a driver's cap, and started driving the locomotive for Ghulam Mohammed.”

Regardless of how unethically the Nazimudddin Ministry was axed, Bogra must have proven himself a suitable candidate to fill the prime minister's slot. His journey from a diplomat to a prime minister owes much to the way he conducted himself.

When Bogra headed the Pakistani diplomatic mission in the United States, his staff included a Lebanese women whose family had settled in Canada, from where Bogra knew her. Her name was Aliya, and she worked as his stenographer. After Bogra had been appointed Pakistan’s Ambassador to the United States, he had Aliya join him in Washington DC.

His association with Aliya did not end there. As soon as he became prime minister, Aliya Begum was re-designated as the Social Secretary to the Prime Minister of Pakistan. She would sit in the prime minister's room and read, for hours, all the files sent to the PM. They married soon after.

Bogra's first wife, Hameeda, would often vent her anger to Majeed, a footman of the PM House. Majeed claims that the older Mrs Bogra used to say, “We had hired her (the second wife of Mr Bogra). See, what she has done to us!”

Aliya Begum's marriage with Bogra was looked down upon by the other ladies of the ruling class. They feared that their husbands would follow suit by marrying more than one woman, and a new tradition of polygamy would take roots in the elites. Rafia Zakria writes on page 45 of her book The Upstairs Wife:

“The women started with the obvious: a boycott of all state functions at which the new, white first lady was invited. At the dinner parties to welcome foreign diplomats, the opening of a national university, the inauguration of a new wing of the Pakistan Secretariat, the presence of the interloping new Mrs Bogra would mean the absence of all other wives and daughters and mothers.

They were the hostesses of the Pakistan’s elite gatherings, and they correctly calculated that without them the men would be left without the oil to grease their rusty conversations and the twittering laughter for their bumbled jokes. They would be forced, the ladies reasoned to acknowledge Mr Bogra’s wrongdoing, and by extension the evils of polygamy. The social boycott would be the first step in their efforts to ban polygamy.”

The relationship between Mohammed Ali Bogra and Ghulam Mohammed went from good to bad very quickly; Bogra, who had once been riding the pilot motorcycle ahead of the Governor-General's car and driving the locomotive for him out of sheer deference, was asked to resign. Naturally, there must have been a whole chain of events which led affairs to this point.

The late military dictator – and as Shaikh Abdul Majid Sindhi puts it, self-proclaimed Field Marshal ‘without fighting a war’ – Ayub Khan writes on page 50 of his autobiography, Friends Not Masters:

“Mohammed Ali Bogra started as protégé of Ghulam Mohammed. As he acquired confidence, he thought he should disengage himself from the apronstrings of the Governor-General. People like Fazlur Rehman, Hashim Gazdar, and Abdus Sattar Pirzada encouraged him to assert himself. They would tell him that if he was not careful, he would meet the fate of his predecessors. They thought that the only answer was to curtail the powers of the Governor-General by amending the Indian Independence Act 1947.”

The plan was duly executed. Prime Minister Mohammed Ali Bogra and his cohorts had decided to get a resolution passed in the Constituent Assembly to this effect. Accordingly, after midnight, copies of the resolution were placed on the desks of all of the Assembly members. The proposed resolution annulled the Articles 9, 10, 10A 10B and 17 of the Indian Independence Act. It took only 10 minutes to vote the resolution into law.

Since then, Pakistan has enacted much of its other legislation with the same lightning speed, in the Bogra tradition.

By passing the resolution, Bogra and his cohorts made it clear to Governor-General Ghulam Mohammed that he no longer enjoyed the constitutional authority to dismiss any government at whim. Prime Minister Bogra, now a satisfied and pleased man, left on a visit to the United States, accompanied by Ayub Khan, Sir Zafarullah Khan, and Chaudhry Mohammad Ali. On the final leg of his foreign tour, he was scheduled to arrive in Canada. However, Bogra was still in the US when he received a message from Ghulam Mohammed to return home at once.

The message left him worried. Ayub Khan writes on pages 51-52 of his autobiography Friends Not Masters:

“At London airport, there was a telephone call for me from the Governor-General. I could not understand what he was saying and I gave the telephone to Iskander Mirza. All we could make out was that he wanted me to get back to Pakistan at once; he was not interested in the others. The Prime Minister was worried about what might happen to him on his return. It was with great difficulty that I persuaded him to accompany us back home....

“On the way, I told Iskander Mirza and Chaudhry Mohammad Ali that it would be extremely unwise if the Prime Minister was taken to the Governor-General immediately on our arrival in Karachi: such a confrontation could lead to an ugly situation... The Prime Minister should go to his own house and wait for a signal from us. Mohammad Ali Bogra put up a brave front, but I think, inwardly he was quite frightened. He had sent a message from London that he should be provided with army protection on arrival.... Iskander Mirza, Chaudhry Mohammad Ali and I went to the Governor-General’s house....

“The Governor-General ... was bursting with rage, emitting volleys of abuse, which, luckily no one understood. Chaudhry Mohammad Ali ventured to say something and received a volley; then Iskander Mirza said something and got another. We were pleading with him to give another chance to Mohammad Ali. His only reply was an angry growl, ‘Go, off you go.’ He kept on saying, ‘No, no.’ All he wanted was to shoo us off.

“We marched out of the bedroom in a single file, Iskander Mirza at the head, Chaudhry Mohammad Ali following, and I bringing up the rear. I was about to step out of the room when the nurse attending the Governor-General tugged at my coat. I turned and found myself facing a different man. There he was, the sick old Governor-General, who a moment ago was insane with anger, now beaming with delight and bubbling with laughter.

“I said in my heart, ‘You wicked old man!’ He beckoned me with a peculiar glee in his eyes, ‘Sit down on the bed.’ He then pulled out two documents from under his pillow. On one was written something to this effect: ‘I, Ghulam Mohammad, so and so, because of this, that and the other hand over such and such authority to General Ayub Khan and command him to proclaim a Constitution within three months.’

“I looked at that paper and said to myself, ‘Damn your soul. For the last eight years you have done damn all, and you expect me to produce a Constitution in three months.’ The other document was to the effect that I had accepted the offer, and for a brief moment I had those historic documents in my hand.

“As I looked at these pieces of paper, everything in me cried, ‘No’. I said: ‘You are being reckless and you will do the country immense harm. I am engaged in building up the army...’”

What is quite amazing, though, is that Ayub Khan in his autobiography frequently claims that he could not understand what Ghulam Mohammed said; this, he understood fully well.

He had arranged a meeting between Bogra and the Governor-General, but in the autobiography, he does not discuss the outcome of this meeting; the ink in his pen congeals before it could reveal the bitter truths from the past.

Pir Mohammed Ali Rashidi details the episode in Rodaad-i-Chaman, a collection of his columns. He has neatly arranged it into bullet points on page 127:

  • “A. In 1954, when Ghulam Mohammed and Bogra had a fight and Bogra left for the US, Ghulam Mohammed ordered Ayub Khan to follow him to America.

  • “B. On his return journey, Bogra was accompanied by Ayub Khan, who took him to Ghulam Mohammed, directly from the airport.

  • “C. When Ghulam Mohammed forced Bogra at gunpoint to dissolve the Constituent Assembly, Ayub Khan was among the “audience” (besides Chaudhry Mohammad Ali).

  • “D. Ghulam Mohammed not only coerced Bogra into dissolving the Constituent Assembly but also compelled him to appoint Ayub Khan as Defence Minister in the central cabinet (Ayub continued as the Commander-in-Chief of Pakistan Army, as well).”

A study of Pakistan's political history would reveal that most of the democratically elected rulers of the country were propped into power by dictators or bureaucracy, but once in office, these rulers realised that they could not blindly follow the eccentric dictators.

Thus, they refused to play second fiddle to them, but not without consequence; they were declared corrupt, opportunists, and traitors, and their governments were either dismissed or toppled.

Bogra met the same fate. His attempt to clip Ghulam Mohammed's powers backfired, and he lost his own wings.

Translated by Arif Anjum from the original in Urdu here.


Related:


Awestruck in Balochistan

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“The world is a book and those who do not travel, read only a page.” —St Augustine

For those acclimated to level plains and the smooth feel of plantations and knolls, the scraggy mountains of Balochistan is an extreme change of scenery. But, in this same extremity, lies its exquisite appeal; a merciless excellence that is most obviously manifested through the spring in the middle of a sandy desert, the water spouting out of an infertile mountain and the dark blue ocean which brushes the pebbled shores.

Most individuals are charmed by greenery, but some are inverse and find themselves pulled towards harsher landscapes. I am no different.

I chose to visit Balochistan to explore the rocky, sandy terrain that is the Hingol National Park. Everyone on my friends list cautioned me against going there alone. 'It's not safe!'

I did manage to find three travelling buddies, and almost immediately, the four of us headed towards the Makran Coastal Highway.

A truck driver has painted his portrait at the back of his truck.
A truck driver has painted his portrait at the back of his truck.
Camels travelling on the road of peace.
Camels travelling on the road of peace.
Beautiful white mountains.
Beautiful white mountains.
Entrance to Balochistan.
Entrance to Balochistan.

As soon as we crossed Sindh, the sights drastically changed. Miles and miles of sand stretched out on both sides of the road. We journeyed for 80km with no sight of a building, not one! Then, mountains began to show up, and how!

We halted at different places to take pictures. At one place, there was this burrow-looking hollow at the highest point of a mountain. We decided to trek to the top. The stones on these mountains turned out to be pretty slippery. At the top of the mountain, we were welcomed by a lovely man-made pass. While I was clicking away, somebody from, what appeared to be inside the mountain, began to holler at us:

"This is not an excursion spot, we are living here with our families."

We apologised and hurriedly left.

I'd happily live in a hollow with the perspective of a royal residence than live in a royal residence with the feel of a cavern.
I'd happily live in a hollow with the perspective of a royal residence than live in a royal residence with the feel of a cavern.
Hameed, a local shopkeeper, who sells beverages.
Hameed, a local shopkeeper, who sells beverages.
Bridge on Hingol river leading to Nani Temple.
Bridge on Hingol river leading to Nani Temple.

Our car was hurtling forward on the smooth road at 100km/hour. It was a workday, so hardly any explorers were in sight. All around us was, the peace and calm challenged by the over-hyped security concerns that are usually trumpeted about this gorgeous province.

On the way, I met regular people in their little shops; they were all pleasant and welcoming. Each local we stopped to talk to, had a smile on their faces. We crossed a few check-posts, where they checked our car and documents, and let us go.

The first stop on our itinerary was Nani Mandir, the most popular spot in Hingol district.

In transit to Nani Mandir was a little mosque, named the Mohammad Bin Qasim mosque, in light of the fact that he entered Sindh at this very point, with his armed forces. There were also the graves of his warriors on one of the mountains.

A very small mosque named Mohammad Bin Qasim, in his memory.
A very small mosque named Mohammad Bin Qasim, in his memory.
Tombs of Muhammad Bin Qasim's soldiers at the right mountain on roadside.
Tombs of Muhammad Bin Qasim's soldiers at the right mountain on roadside.
Mountains shining in the scorching sun.
Mountains shining in the scorching sun.

When we arrived at Nani Mandir, the first thing we noticed were the tiny, colourful bits of cloth tied to the trees, each standing for a wish that a visitor prayed to be fulfilled.

Hinglaj Mata (the other name for Nani Mandir) is a Hindu sanctuary in Hinglaj, a town on the Makran coast in the Lasbela locale of Balochistan. It is the centre of the Hingol National Park.

Pathway created by cutting mountains leading to Nani Temple.
Pathway created by cutting mountains leading to Nani Temple.
Statue of Kamadhenu.
Statue of Kamadhenu.
Solar panels placed at the residuals of mountains to produce electricity.
Solar panels placed at the residuals of mountains to produce electricity.
A squirrel munches his share of a coconut, undisturbed.
A squirrel munches his share of a coconut, undisturbed.

This sanctuary is situated in an old hollow. It is a warm place where a huge number of Hindus from territories come to perform pilgrimage (Utam Yatra) for four days. When we talked with the monk, Mr Gopal Gree, he shared some fascinating information with us. According to him:

"This sanctuary is 2.5 million years old. Hinglaj Mata (goddess of Hinglaj) was sent by god to free the state from the fear of Hingol son of Vichitra. She took Hingol to the cave and executed him. Before his demise, Hingol prayed for peache and asked the goddess to name the region after him, so now the whole zone is known as Hingol."

Gopal Gree sitting with the statue of Hinglaj Mata and her friend.
Gopal Gree sitting with the statue of Hinglaj Mata and her friend.
Pictures in memory of the old goddess.
Pictures in memory of the old goddess.
Replica slippers of Hinglaj Mata, as the original ones were stolen.
Replica slippers of Hinglaj Mata, as the original ones were stolen.
A signboard at the largest national park in Pakistan.
A signboard at the largest national park in Pakistan.

The sanctuary is venerated by Hindus, as well as Muslim Sufis. Gree told us, "Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai also came to this sanctuary once. Shah Latif called Devi by the name of 'Nani Maa' (grandmother). That gave the place the name 'Nani Mandir'. On his call, the Hinglaj Devi statue would begin to respond and sit and drink milk from his hands."

The temple is surrounded with mountains, running by the side is the Hingol stream. The gatekeeper warned us that there were crocodiles and wild creatures here. But for as long as we trekked around, we didn't find anything. Perhaps, the dry, hot season had forced the creatures away.

From Nani Mandir, we proceeded to the Kund Malir beach, where the delightfully blue waters drained all our fatigue. There was a small lodging for stay, and an eatery from where we had lunch. Then, we ran right over the white sands and jumped into the dark blue ocean.

Signboard displaying the start of Kund Malir Beach.
Signboard displaying the start of Kund Malir Beach.
Beautiful beach at the back of the beautiful rocky mountains.
Beautiful beach at the back of the beautiful rocky mountains.
Palm trees and a hut.
Palm trees and a hut.
A goat at the beach.
A goat at the beach.

After a while, we proceeded with our excursion to investigate the Princess of Hope, which was named so by Hollywood celebrity, Angelina Jolie, on her visit to Balochistan. Accompanying the princess was the sphinx-like structure. It was a wonderful spot, and with that came an end to our adventure in Balochistan.

An S-shaped road leading to the Princess of Hope. There were also small houses on the roadside.
An S-shaped road leading to the Princess of Hope. There were also small houses on the roadside.
Road built by cutting two huge mountains, reminding me of Kati Pahari in Karachi.
Road built by cutting two huge mountains, reminding me of Kati Pahari in Karachi.
The Princess of Hope.—Photo by Noman Ansari
The Princess of Hope.—Photo by Noman Ansari
The sphinx-like structure.—Photo by Noman Ansari
The sphinx-like structure.—Photo by Noman Ansari

Balochistan is a vastly unexplored region. In the past, it was home to crocodiles, exotic birds, panthers and other wildlife. Many of these are said to still be there, though we didn't spot any in Hingol.

Be that as it may, this province is a must-see! You can feel life return here, with the region holding out its arms wide open to welcome voyagers.

—All photos are by the author unless stated otherwise


Hammad Shakil is a photographer and travel guide operating his tour company The Josh Tours.

Follow him on Instagram @hammad.shakil

Leaving home: It's time for immigrants to help refugees

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If Facebook likes and tweets could be the solution, Aylan Kurdi, the toddler whose body washed up on a beach in Turkey, and thousands of unknown others, would not have died an unfortunate death.

The recent refugee crisis, exacerbated by the civil war in Syria, requires the international community to do more to assist the globally displaced.

Even a bigger responsibility rests with those in the West, who emigrated from the war-torn parts of the world, to find refuge for millions escaping hunger, poverty, and wars.

Also read: 'No one puts their children in a boat unless the water is safer than the land'

The shocking image of Aylan’s body lying face down on the beach alerted the world to a crisis that had largely gone unnoticed. Aylan, his brother, and mother were among the 12 refugees who drowned near the Turkish resort town of Bodrum.

Another six million Syrians are displaced within and outside of Syria. Because of global apathy, the World Food Program has been “struggling to meet the urgent food needs of close to six million displaced people in Syria and in neighbouring countries.”

Germany has risen to the occasion and offered to accept at least half a million Syrian refugees every year for the next few years. Others in Europe are under pressure to reciprocate the German philanthropy.

Britain has grudgingly agreed to accept 20,000 Syrian refugees over the next five years. France has committed to accept 24,000 refugees. At the same time, numerous Western countries, including Canada and the US, have been reluctant to accept a large number of Syrian refugees.

The above graphic is generated from 1,670 news headlines that appeared in major English language newspapers between August 25 and September 9, 2015.

The size of each word is determined by its frequent appearance in the headlines. The graphic highlights the absence of Canada and the US from the global discourse on Syrian refugees.

What led to the Syrian refugee crisis?

Canada and the US must do more to assist the Syrians. It was primarily an American driven initiative to dislodge the Syrian President Bashar al-Asad that resulted in the refugee crisis. The US did so to appease the Israelis and Arabs (mainly Saudis) who were becoming increasingly wary of the Iranian influence in Syria and Lebanon.

The US establishment was so eager to destabilise the Asad regime that it allowed fake experts on Syria to influence the American legislators. The US Secretary of State, John Kerry, and Senator John McCain presented a 26-year old quack, Elizabeth O’Bagy, as an expert on Syria and quoted her Wall Street Journal op-ed in Senate hearings. She had lied about her doctorate and hid her paid assignments for Syrian rebels.

Ms. O’Bagy encouraged the American legislators to support the rebels whose ranks were increasingly filled with the Al-Qaeda affiliated jihadists. She misled the American media and the US establishment when she wrote in WSJ: “The conventional wisdom holds that the extremist elements are completely mixed in with the more moderate rebel groups. This isn't the case. Moderates and extremists wield control over distinct territory.”

While the rest of the world could clearly see that a weakened al-Asad regime would likely be replaced by brutal jihadists – now known as ISIS, which is led by the self-proclaimed caliph, Abu Bakar Al-Baghdadi – the US and Canada willfully ignored the larger threat to global security.

Canada first imposed sanctions and later broke off diplomatic ties with Syria. In 2011, the former Canadian foreign minister, John Baird, accommodated a Syrian rebel group in the Canadian Embassy in Turkey. In an interview in December 2011, Mr Baird declared that the Assad regime had “lost all legitimacy and its abhorrent behavior will not be tolerated.”

By 2014, both the US and Canada had to reverse their support for the Syrian rebels as it became increasingly obvious that the jihadists had assumed control from other rebels and claimed large territories in Syria and Iraq. The jihadists were staging attacks across the Middle East and beyond.

The Europeans, however, were better informed about the Syrian conflict.

Also read: Why don’t Gulf states accept more refugees?

In the summer of 2013, a comprehensive report commissioned by the European Parliament (EP) accused Wahabi and Salafi groups, based largely out of Saudi Arabia, of supporting and supplying arms to rebel groups around the world. I covered the EP report in July 2013. I wrote:

The European Parliament’s report estimates that Saudi Arabia alone has spent over $10 billion to promote Wahabism through Saudi charitable foundations. The tiny, but very rich, state of Qatar is the new entrant to the game supporting militant franchises from Libya to Syria.

How can immigrants help refugees?

With six million Syrians displaced and no end in sight for a resolution of the Syrian civil war, the western world needs to step up efforts to find refuge for Syrian migrants.

While the Canadian federal government is negligent and reluctant to realise the urgency, ordinary citizens, municipal and provincial governments, and others have launched several initiatives to bring over Syrian refugees to Canada.

One such initiative has been launched by the Ryerson University in Toronto. Ratna Omidvar, executive director of the Global Diversity Exchange, and Professor Wendy Cukier, vice president of research and innovation, started the initiative to help resettle 44 Syrian refugees. Within no time many, including the University’s President and the Provost, signed up to offer financial and other help to settle Syrian refugees.

It costs approximately $27,000 to support a refugee family. Because the Canadian government wants 60 per cent of the 10,000 Syrian refugees to be supported privately, there is an urgent need to raise large sums to settle refugees in Canada. Canadians will have to raise over $40 million to settle approximately 2,500 refugee families.

The Canadian Census in 2011 recorded over one million Muslims in Canada. For such a large community, raising $40 million should not be a difficult task. It boils down to just $40 per Muslim Canadian to help resettle 10,000 Syrian refugees in Canada.

In his tragic death, Aylan Kurdi touched the hearts of millions resulting in hundreds of millions of tweets and Facebook Likes. It’s time to do more than click on social media.

Let us donate to honour the memory of the young Kurdi and millions more like him.

Related:

How to be happy: Don't let others dictate your life

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When I was 12, a kindly older relative asked me what I wanted to do when I grew up. I said I wanted to become a writer, and he visibly scoffed at the notion, telling me that writers are usually broke, with no real prospects of having a comfortable life.

I defiantly told him that J.K. Rowling had made millions from her books, and he said that she is just one person, there are countless others who don’t find success.

At the time, his words stung me badly, but they opened my eyes as well. So, while I never quit trying to become a writer and the dream to reach dizzying heights of success is still alive, it has been punctuated by the reality of day-to-day expenses.

I have another job to make money from, because that kindly gentleman was right – writing doesn’t make everyone as rich as J.K Rowling. Still, writing is my passion and something I will do my utmost to keep pursuing.

The purpose of saying all this is to answer some questions I received in response to my last piece on thriving in the workplace.

A few people asked me how to decide what to do with their lives, as they had no inkling what they wanted. They had stumbled into their lives and were now unhappy with the direction things were taking.

It seems to me, that we live in a society where the choices of most people were immensely affected by the opinions of others.

“My father wants me to appear for the CSS exams, I don’t want to but I’m doing this for him.”

“My parents said they wouldn’t pay my university expenses unless I got a degree in computer science. So that’s why I’m in this field.”

“I didn’t know what to study so I got admission in MBA as that’s what my older brother had done.”

Everyone I asked seems to have made serious life decisions this way. It takes away the burden of making a decision and gives us a permanent excuse to explain away our choices; 'My parents told me to', 'Everyone else was doing it', 'People say studying arts subjects is for dumb kids', etc.

These oft-repeated phrases are socially accepted as very reasonable explanations for why a person has done or not done something.

Adulthood – the phase of life in which a person makes his own life choices and then owns the consequences – never really arrives for us in Pakistan.

Most of us continue to live in our same old bedroom, eating food cooked by Amma, handing over our salaries to Abba and doing minor household chores assigned to us.

For women, things are slightly different as they have to move from their own bedroom to that of their husband's and exchange the authority of their parents for that of her parents-in-law. And, this is a very comfortable life for many.

You are referred to as an obedient child (even though you stopped being a child a long time ago) and you are absolved of all guilt if anything does go wrong, since everything from your career to your spouse was picked out by other people.

There is nothing wrong with living this way, if it makes you happy. But, somewhere along the line, most people wake up to the realisation that life has passed them by without them ever fully participating in it; they have lived mechanically to the tune of others and now, it’s too late to do anything about it.

Adulthood and the desire to be independent creeps up on us, but we are so paralysed by the fears instilled in us from very early childhood, that it’s hard to even think about making independent decisions and then living with the results.


Wanting to make our own choices is labelled as disobedience and the price is not only failure in this life, but also in the afterlife. That’s a big burden to carry.

Then, there is that age-old question which plagues us all “log kya kahen gay?

So we march on, making martyrs of ourselves, unable to even contemplate having dreams. We pity ourselves for never having done what we wanted, but are also proud of having lived for other people.

See: Loag kya kahen gay: Living a life in fear of public opinion

But does that make anybody happy in the long run, though? If you are dissatisfied with your life, it shines through in everything you do.

You turn bitter, your work and relationships are affected and you pass on your fears to the next generation, so they are trapped in the same cycle of perpetually dependent childhood.

Speak up. It’s your life, and you do have the right to express an opinion about it. This isn’t disrespectful or wrong. But, also have the courage to then live with your choices, whether they result in success or failure.

Dream but don’t build up your aspirations so much that they become castles in the sky you can never reach.

It’s never easy or straightforward to get where we want to go, but it is worth the effort. If you wish to become independent enough to make your own choices, then you have to be independent enough to take care of yourself.

Adulthood comes both with privileges and responsibilities. But the internal satisfaction of knowing you did something of your own accord is worth the cost.

Find a passion. If you don't know yours, start looking inward. There are always some things that we enjoy doing but are too caught up in other matters to notice.

Remember, you won't be suddenly propelled into the life you want to live through some magical event, except what you can do on your own.

Take a chance on yourself.

Food Stories: Palak Paneer

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Our journey into sub-continental cuisines has often taken us back to the times when it was being classified into celebratory menus, ethnic specialties and seasonal delights.

One such hearty rustica is palak paneer or saag paneer, an old favourite of the Punjab, more so of Northern India and adopted by Pakistan.

The five rivers that flow through Punjab, namely Chenab, Sutlej, Jhelum, Ravi and Beas make the land fertile and rich, giving birth to earthy vegetables, favoured by the urban population of not only Punjab, but the entire subcontinent.

Additionally, dairy forms an essential part of everyday consumption, may it be a dollop of makkan on makkai ke roti, a glass of mithi or namkeenlassi, a tarka of desi ghee, or paneer playing host to saag and palak.

Since India is vastly vegetarian, it has developed appetising techniques of substituting meat, and paneer is one such perfect replacement.

It has great spongy texture, layered depth and a mellow flavour which plays the perfect partner to most vegetables, lentils and grain flours.

The quintessentially Punjabi paneer is a cheese used vastly in all flavours of desi cuisine, sweet, savoury and tangy, and its union with spinach and/or mustard greens is a match made in heaven.

Saag is consumed in the region of Punjab in the cooler months. Traditionally, saag paneer evolved into palak paneer to suit the palate of the people who lived beyond the borders of Punjab and preferred a more urbane menu (since spinach was introduced to the subcontinent much later than the locally grown mustard green).

Needless to say, saag paneer and palak paneer are interchangeable and are made using different kinds of leafy greens, much like sarsoon ka saag.

The Food and Travel Magazine says the following about spinach;

The first we heard of spinach in Britain was when Richard the Second’s master cooks penned a simple recipe for it in England’s earliest cookery book. Wherever it originated from, everybody seemed to fall for its robust mineral flavours and versatility. In India and Persia its pungent taste was welcomed as the perfect base for the intensely spiced cuisine.

Nothing is more quintessentially Punjabi than saag; it’s a hearty food, abundant in flavour and nutrients, much like the land and the people it belongs to.

Saag and palak (since its arrival in the subcontinent) was the rural people’s food, and the robust homemade paneer saag or palak paneer union fit the hardworking lifestyle of the village people, who laboriously working the agricultural lands of the fertile province.

They almost always propagated the consumption of desi ghee (clarified butter), desi makhan (butter), lassi (yogurt drink), desi paneer (cottage cheese) and chaach (buttermilk), and this practice has since carried to urban Punjab as well. A heavy cuisine it may be but its organic goodness is nutritious like no other.

When it was time for me to make palak paneer I turned to my dear friend Anjali from across the border for her recipe. Here it is, from my kitchen to yours.

Ingredients

3 ½ bunches of spinach (blanched in a little water and pureed in a food processor)
3 to 4 tbsp. oil
1¼ tsp. cumin
2 finely sliced medium-sized onions
3 to 4 green chilllies, slit in length
1 tsp. fresh ginger and garlic
Red chillie powder to taste
1 tsp. coriander powder
275 grams. paneer (cut in small cubes and fried)
2 tomatoes (finely chopped)
Salt to taste
1 tsp. garam masala powder
1 tbsp. malai (cream), or to taste

Method

Sautee the onions until soft (for a few minutes), adding cumin, green chillie, ginger garlic.

Continue stirring while adding red chllie and coriander powder.

Next, add chopped tomatoes, stir on high heat until softened, adding pureed spinach and cook for 10-15 minutes.

Add in the fried paneer, garam masala and malai, cook for a few minutes until done. Serve with chapatti or rice.

Making of the Sindhi identity: From Shah Latif to GM Syed to Bhutto

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In a nutshell, between the 1930s and mid-2000s, the existential narrative that furnished the Sindhi identity in Pakistan was this: Sindhis were of a land and society that was largely shaped by the deeds of hundreds of Sufi saints (especially Shah Abdul Latif), who preached tolerance and co-existence, and were suspicious of those who were stripping Islam of its spiritual essence, while replacing it with a creed based on a rigid worldview and an obsession with rituals.

This narrative was essential for Sindhis because it helped them find an anchor for their ethnic identity and sense of history; especially in a country where (according to them) the state was attempting to bypass centuries-old identities based on ethnicity, on the back of a largely cosmetic ideology based on a myopic understanding of the ethnic, religious and sectarian complexities of Pakistan.

The 19th century British traveller, Richard Burton, in his prolific accounts of Sindh, described the province to be one of the calmest regions of British India, with its own unique blends of faith.

Writing in the mid-1800s, Burton described Sindh as a land dotted by numerous shrines of Sufi saints; frequented in large numbers, by both the Muslim, as well as the Hindu inhabitants of the region.

He described Sindhi Muslims to be somewhat different (in their beliefs and rituals) from the Muslims of the rest of India.

According to Burton, even the Hindus of Sindh were different because their Hinduism was more influenced by Buddhism.

Birth of the existential Sindhi identity

When Punjab was being ripped apart by violent and gruesome clashes between the Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims after the creation of Pakistan in 1947, Sindh remained peaceful.

In Interpreting the Sindh World, Vazira Fazila writes that Sindh’s British Governor, Francis Mudie, reported that the Hindus of Sindh were likely to stay behind (in Pakistan) because there was no chance of communal violence in the province that had exhibited ‘great communal harmony’.

However, after some Hindu places of worship were attacked in Karachi in 1948, Hindu Sindhis began to leave in droves.

This is when Sindhi intellectuals and political thinkers such as Ibrahim Joyo and GM Syed began to shape a meta-narrative of Sindhi identity, because to them, the departing Hindus were first Sindhis, then Hindus; and their departure weakened Sindh’s demography and economy.

After the creation of Pakistan (and then the demise of its founder, Mohammad Ali Jinnah), the Pakistani state began in earnest its long-drawn project to cut through the country’s ethnic complexities by constructing and then imposing a monolithic narrative of Pakistani nationhood.

This attracted the scorn of the country’s various ethnicities, who dismissed and rejected the state’s idea of nationhood. They believed it contradicted the notions of nationhood and faith enshrined in the historical DNA of their respective ethnicities.

Between 1958 and the early 1970s, GM Syed immersed himself in the study of the religious, social and political histories of Sindh. In 1966, he created 'Bazm-e-Sufian-e-Sindh', an intellectual initiative that also included a number of other Sindhi scholars.

Syed and these scholars then went on to publish a number of important papers and books that helped form the doctrinal and ideological basis of modern Sindhi nationalism.

G.M. Syed.
G.M. Syed.

This nationalism explained the Sindhis to be descendants of the natives of the Indus Valley Civilisation, whose social, political and religious consciousness was influenced by various religions and cultures that had arrived and established themselves in the region in the last 5000 years.

It added that this aspect of Sindh’s history, along with the Muslim Sufi saints who began to arrive and settle in Sindh after the 8th Century CE, helped shape the Sindhi society in becoming inherently tolerant and pluralistic, and repulsed by those strands of the faith that eschewed tolerance.

Syed’s works gave Sindhi identity a historical and religious context that also helped shield the Sindhi society from being affected by the disastrous sectarian and extremist fall-outs of the various religious experiments conducted by the state and governments of Pakistan.

Bhutto steps in

Though Syed failed to transform his scholarly impact into political mileage (for himself), another Sindhi, ZA Bhutto, who was accused by Syed of being a stooge of the ‘establishment’, recognised the impact Syed had had on the Sindhi mindset.

In 1975, when his party, the left-liberal Pakistan Peoples Party (PPP), was in power and he was ruling as the country’s first elected prime minister, Bhutto appropriated Syed’s narrative by organising a large government-backed conference on Sindh (in Karachi), in which Sindhi scholars were invited to officially adopt what Syed had already initiated.

In 1972, Syed’s Sindhi ethnic party, the Jeeay Sindh (JS), had demanded the separation of Sindh from Pakistan and Syed had been arrested. Bhutto wanted to neutralise separatist feelings in his home province by tying Syed’s enormous thesis and narrative of Sindh’s religious and cultural history to that of the Pakistani state’s.

It was during the 1975 conference that Syed’s idea of Sindh historically being ‘the land of the Sufis’ was first recognised and promoted by the state. It was then turned into an official narrative (through state-owned media), but only after stripping the Sindhi nationalist/separatist aspect that Syed had attached to this narrative.

Thus, it was after 1975 that the expression ‘Sindh is a land of Sufis’ was given official currency.

Z.A. Bhutto.
Z.A. Bhutto.

Dutch author and expert on Sindh, Oskar Verkaaik, suggests (in his 2010 paper The Sufi Saints of Sindhi Nationalism) that Bhutto, besides trying to neutralise Syed’s political impact in the province, used the conference to further beef up his (Bhutto’s) concept of the populist ‘Third World Socialism’ by combining it with Syed’s thesis on Sindhi Sufism.

Bhutto’s regime was toppled in a reactionary military coup by General Ziaul Haq (July 1977), and in 1979, he was executed through a sham trial.

On the day Bhutto was hanged, Syed commented that the ‘the (Punjabi-dominated) establishment doesn’t realise that today, it hanged its most loyal servant.’

Yet, most of the movements and protests against the Zia dictatorship took place in Sindh. And rather ironically, during perhaps the largest such movement (the 1983 MRD uprising in the interior of Sindh), Syed did not take any part.

When he was asked why his party had decided not to take part in a movement that was being brutally crushed by the ‘establishment’, Syed said: ‘Zia is making our job easier by leading the break-up of Pakistan.’

Dozens of Sindhis lost their lives in the 1983 movement against Zia.

The MRD (Movement for the Restoration of Democracy) was a PPP-led alliance that also included some small far-left parties and one religious party, the Jamiat Ulema Islam (JUI) that was the only mainstream religious outfit that was opposing Zia.

Much of the protesting and fighting was done by activists belonging to the PPP and its student-wing, the PSF, and by the members of the far-left Awami Tehreek – a Sindhi nationalist party that was not associated with GM Syed. A number of journalist unions and women’s organisations also took an active part.

A jail cell in Nawabshah, Sindh, packed with MRD activists in 1983.
A jail cell in Nawabshah, Sindh, packed with MRD activists in 1983.

When the violence increased and the number of civilian deaths rose, Syed’s Jeeay Sindh broke into two factions. One faction (the Jeeay Sindh Taraqi Pasand Party) decided to go against Syed’s decision to sit out the movement.

Zia was killed in August 1988 when (allegedly) a bomb went off on the C130 plane he was traveling on. The federalist PPP (now led by Bhutto’s young daughter, Benazir Bhutto) had managed to retain its influence and popularity in Sindh, whereas the Sindhi nationalists, by then, had become a fractured and fragmented lot.

Jeeay Sindh had broken into various factions and many Sindhi nationalists had also joined Murtaza Bhutto’s urban guerrilla outfit, the Al-Zulfikar (AZO).

The AZO was formed by Bhutto’s sons, Murtaza and Shahnawaz in 1979. It had been an ethnically diverse group, having in its ranks many young Punjabis, Mohajirs (Urdu-speakers), Pakhtuns and Sindhis. However, in 1985, it changed colour and largely became a militant Sindhi nationalist outfit before it was folded (in 1990) by Murtaza.

Shahnawaz and Murtaza (1979).
Shahnawaz and Murtaza (1979).

Despite the fact that the PPP had managed to dominate the political proceedings in Sindh, GM Syed continued to be revered as a sage by the Sindhis.

Dutch academic, Oskar Verkaaik, during his field study in Sindh in 1989-90, came across shops that had portraits of ZA Bhutto hanging on the walls right beside those of GM Syed.

Sindh’s existential disposition shaped by the likes of GM Syed and then pragmatically adopted and reengineered by Bhutto had survived Zia’s reactionary ideological onslaught.

A narrative in crisis

But if (thanks to the social and political outcome of Syed’s narrative) Sindh managed to withstand the many waves of religious extremism and radicalisation in the last three decades in Pakistan, why, all of a sudden, are we now witnessing episodes of religious bigotry and violence in the interior of the province?

In the last five years or so, attacks on Hindu places of worship and on men who had allegedly committed ‘heresy’, have been reported from the ‘land of the Sufis.’

Though the number of such incidents in Sindh is far lower still when compared to those taking place in, say, the Punjab and KP, the incidents seem to generate more debate because they took place in Sindh.

Though Sindh’s sprawling cosmopolitan capital, Karachi, is a staggering melting-pot of various ethnicities, religions, sects and sub-sects; and remains to hold its general pluralistic disposition, its darker sides, boiling with ethnic tensions, street crime, violent gangs and administrational chaos, continues to get darkened still.

What’s more, entering the chaos now are various groups of militant sectarian and extremist organisations that have taken over many congested swaths of the city.

But the rest of Sindh, till only a few years ago, was being explained as being perhaps, the country’s last major bastion of sectarian and religious harmony, still holding its reputation of being an epicentre of ‘indigenous Sufism-inspired tolerance.’

So what happened?

Three views have recently cropped up to explain the rising incidents of religious bigotry in Sindh.

1. Many Sindhi nationalists have accused the state of using extreme groups in Sindh to neutralise Sindhi nationalism.

2. The second view suggests that when Sindh suffered serious damage from the devastating 2011 floods in the province, some well-organised militant faith-based organisations set-up ‘relief camps’ in the flood-hit areas. But when the floods receded, these organisations stayed back and began to build madrassahs, from where, they are indoctrinating young Sindhis coming from poverty-stricken backgrounds.

3. The third view sees the PPP – the party that has been sweeping elections in Sindh for over 40 years now – of being unable to detect the intensity of the problem, and now suffering from extreme complacency. Those holding this view also blame the failed economic policies of the PPP governments here, which are making many poor young Sindhis fall into the trap laid down by extremist organisations.

However, there are also those who believe that bad economics is not the main issue (at least in this regard).

Just before the 2013 election, Faiz Qureshi, a retired Sindhi civil servant told a local news channel: ‘Sindhis are not fools to keep voting for the PPP in spite of that party leaving them hungry and desperate.’ He then added: ‘this (the gradual rise of religious discord) is a completely new phenomenon in Sindh. The PPP just doesn’t know how to tackle it.’

Syed’s retreat

Some economists have credited the many PPP governments in Sindh for helping shape the province’s growing middle-classes.

Political economist Asad Sayeed claims that to most Sindhis, the PPP remains to be the only party that helps them keep pace with the economics related to federal-level politics. He suggests, ‘the PPP remains to be their (the Sindhis') main link with Islamabad.’

Some three years ago, author and columnist, Ayesha Siddiqua, explained in an article how she had witnessed the emergence of madrassahs in upper Sindh.

To her, the sudden growth of madressas in the province is not a coincidence. She believes they are being set up for reasons that are far more ominous than just bad economics.

See: The madressa mix: Genesis and growth

The interior of the Sindh province has had the fewest number of madrassahs, especially the kind that sprang up in Punjab and KP from the 1980s onwards and were used as indoctrination centres for young men willing to fight ‘infidels’ in Afghanistan.

Many have now also turned against their former mentors (in state institutions) who had molded them to do their bidding (and fighting) in Afghanistan.

But Sindhis were never part of any jihad (state-sponsored or otherwise). So, who is joining these seminaries?

A TV host at the Sindhi TV channel 'Awaaz' recently told me:

‘It’s confusing. Most Sindhis are still PPP voters and followers of Syed Sain (GM Syed). Most of them are still pluralistic and visit Sufi shrines like they always did. The problem is that the new generation of Sindhis have lost its bearings.’

When I asked him to elaborate, he added: ‘Till even a decade ago, most young Sindhis used to either join the student-wings of the PPP or that of a Sindhi nationalist party. But the generation today has become anarchist (sic). One really doesn’t know where they stand.’

He went on: ‘The PPP has grown lazy. It keeps its voters happy with certain economic schemes but fails to understand so many complexities that have cropped up in the Sindhi society. Many young Sindhis today are not being educated about their people’s history the way they used to. Look at the Sindhi nationalists. They’ve split into a thousand factions!’

I asked him whether the Sindh Festival (organised by the PPP-led Sindh government and organised by Benazir’s son, Bilawal Bhutto in 2014) was the PPP’s way of revitalising views about Sindh’s Sufi heritage among the new generation of young Sindhis.

‘As an idea, it made sense,’ he replied. ‘But it won’t do much. Because some Sindhis have learned from the rest of Pakistan that land and other petty disputes can now be solved by accusing ones opponent of sacrilege!’

The same year (2014), a Hindu place of worship was torched in Bhutto’s hometown of Larkana. The majority of Sindhis I managed to talk to after the Larkana incident exhibited a genuine concern. Most were of the view that something of the scale of Syed’s narrative would be required to once again shield Sindh from the scrooge of sectarianism and extremism that has ravaged Pakistani society and polity for decades now.

They believe Syed’s works should be popularised among the new generation of young Sindhis. But since the PPP is still the largest party in the province, they think that the PPP’s next foray should be an intellectual one. It should provide a platform that would work out a narrative based on the modern-day understanding of Sindh’s harmonious heritage and then circulated among the young people of Sindh (of all ethnicities and classes).

Meanwhile in Karachi …

Mohajirs (Urdu-speakers) constitute the second largest ethnic community in Sindh. They are sprinkled across the province, but are a majority in the province’s capital, Karachi (48 per cent according to the 1998 consensus); and a large Mohajir population can also be found in Sindh’s second largest city, Hyderabad. Unlike the country’s other ethnic groups, Mohajirs are not ‘people of the soil’ and/or they have roots in areas that are outside of what today is Pakistan.

A majority of them arrived from various Indian villages, towns and cities (especially from North India).'Mohajir' in Urdu means 'refugee', and that’s what they were called when they migrated to Pakistan in 1947.

Most of them were Urdu-speakers, but also included Gujrati-speakers. A bulk of them settled in Karachi and by the early 1950s, they had become a vital part of the otherwise Punjabi-dominated ruling elite of Pakistan – mainly due to the high rate of education found in the Mohajir community, its urbane complexion, and the required expertise in running the new country’s nascent bureaucracy and (urban) economy.

Socially, the Mohajirs of Sindh were urbane, but politically they sided with the country’s two major religious parties, the Jamat-i-Islami (JI) and the Jamiat Ulema Pakistan (JUP).

The dichotomy between the Mohajirs’ social and political dispositions was a result of the community’s sense of insecurity that it felt in a country where the majority of its inhabitants were ‘sons of the soil.’ The Punjabis, Bengalis, Sindhis, Baloch and Pakhtuns already had dedicated constituencies in the new country based on their ethnic histories and languages.

The Mohajirs didn’t. They were refugees. So, out of this sense of anxiety, on the one hand, they excelled in the building and running of the nascent country’s state and government institutions (except the military that was dominated by the Punjabis); and on the other hand, they politically allied themselves with religious parties and the state of Pakistan that wanted to eschew and undermine the ethnic diversity of the country and mold a more monolithic concept of Pakistani nationhood.

This curtailed any chance of the Mohajirs to earnestly integrate and adopt the ways of the Sindhi-speaking majority of Sindh. Also, since the Mohajir community had risen to become part of the country’s early ruling elite, the Sindhis started to see the Mohajirs as cultural and political invaders who wanted to sideline the Sindhis in their own land.

But with the arrival of the country’s first military rule in 1958 (Field Martial Ayub Khan), the Mohajirs had already begun to lose their influence in the ruling elite.

With the Baloch, Bengali and Sindhi nationalists radically distancing themselves from the state’s narratives of nationhood (and remaining well outside of the ruling elite), Ayub (who hailed from Khyber Pakhtunkha), slowly began to pull in the Pakhtuns into the mainstream of Pakistani economy and politics.

Celebrated Marxist academic, Professor Jamal Naqvi, in his 2014 biography, Leaving the Left Behind, claims that Pakhtun nationalist leaders such as Wali Khan too decided to ‘bargain with the establishment after the 1971 East Pakistan debacle’ and this also facilitated the gradual entry of the Pakhtuns into the ruling and economic elite of the country.

Though by the late 1960s, the Mohajirs had decisively lost their place in the ruling elite, they were still an economic force (especially in urban Sindh).

When a Sindhi, ZA Bhutto, became the country’s prime minister in 1972, the Mohajirs feared that they would be further sidelined, this time by the economic and political resurgence of Sindhis under Bhutto. In response to this apprehension, the Mohajirs participated in droves against the Bhutto regime during the 1977 anti-Bhutto PNA movement.

PNA’s main driving force were the country’s three main religious parties: JI, JUP and Jamiat Ulema Islam (JUI), though it also had in its fold Pir Pagara’s conservative Muslim League and Asghar Khan’s centrist Tehreek-e-Istaqlal.

PNA accused Bhutto of rigging the 1977 election and the violent movement that it initiated made way for the country’s third Martial Law (General Ziaul Haq).

But taking part in the PNA movement did not see the Mohajirs finding their way back into the fold of the ruling elite, even though the JI became an important player in Ziaul Haq’s first cabinet.

Disillusioned by the results of the movement, some Mohajir politicians came to the conclusion that the Mohajirs had been exploited by religious parties, and it was the shoulders of the Mohajirs that these parties had used to climb into the corridors of power.

It was this feeling that triggered the formation of the All Pakistan Mohajir Students Organisation (in 1978) and then the Mohajir Qaumi Movement (MQM) in 1984. Its founders, led by Altaf Hussain and Azim Ahmed Tariq, decided to organise the Mohajir community into a coherent ethnic whole.

Altaf Hussain with Azeem Ahmad Tariq (right) in 1979.
Altaf Hussain with Azeem Ahmad Tariq (right) in 1979.

For this, they felt the need to break away from the Mohajir community’s tradition of being politically allied to the religious parties, and politicise the Mohajirs’ more pluralistic social dynamics and disposition. The Mohajir dichotomy between social liberalism and political conservatism was dissolved and replaced with a new identity-narrative concentrating on the formation of Mohajir ethnic nationalism, pitched against the ‘Punjabi establishment’ as a whole and against the political muscle of the religious parties in urban Sindh.

The MQM eventually broke the electoral hold of the religious parties in Karachi and succeeded in organising and reinventing the Mohajirs of Sindh as a distinct ethnic group.

By 1992, the MQM had become Sindh’s second largest political party. Its rise created severe cleavages in Karachi’s traditional political landscape, that had been largely dominated by parties such as the PPP, the JI and JUP.

As Karachi’s economics and resources continued to come under stress due to the increasing migration to the city from within Sindh, KP and the Punjab, corruption in the police and other government institutions operating in Karachi grew two-fold.

The need to use muscle to tilt the political and economic aspects of the city towards a community’s interests became prominent.

Thus emerged the so-called militant wings in the city’s prominent political groups, whose members, even by the early 1990s, had begun to moonlight as fraudsters and violent criminals.

These cleavages saw the MQM ghettoising large swaths of the city’s Mohajirs in areas where it ruled supreme.

The results were disastrous. It replaced the pluralistic and enterprising disposition of the Mohajirs with a besieged mentality that expressed itself in an awkwardly violent manner attracting the concern and then the wrath of the state.

Between 1992 and 1999, the MQM faced three full-fledged operations from the military, police and para-military forces.

The operations and the violence did not fragment the party because the Mohajir nationalism that it had molded remained intact among the Mohajirs. But the experience did lead the MQM leadership to further elaborate and define the Mohajir nationalist narrative.

In 2002, MQM began to regenerate itself when it decided to end hostilities with the state by allying itself with the General Musharraf dictatorship (1999-2008).

Musharraf had posed himself as a liberal, and it was during the time that the MQM operated as a partner of his regime that it began to expand the concept of Mohajir identity and nationalism.

The party had already weaned away the Mohajir community from the concept of Pakistani nationhood propagated by the religious parties. Now, it added two more dimensions to Mohajir nationalism that worked side-by-side.

It began to explain the Mohajirs as Urdu-speaking Sindhis who were connected to the Sindhi-speakers of the province in a spiritual bond emerging from the teachings of Sindh’s ‘patron saint’, Shah Abdul Latif.

MQM embraces Shah Latif
MQM embraces Shah Latif

This was MQM’s way of resolving the Mohajirs’ early failures to fully adopt Sindhi culture. Sindhi nationalists saw it as just another political move.

The other dimension that emerged during this period among the Mohajir community (through the MQM), was to address the disposition of Mohajir identity in the Mohajir-majority areas of Sindh.

This dimension saw MQM make Mohajir nationalism and identity (regarding Islam) to be understood as a modern reworking of the ‘modernist Islam’ of 19th century Muslim scholar, Sir Syed Ahmed Khan, and his Aligarh School of Thought (that most urban middle-class Urdu-speaking Muslims of India had belonged to before partition).

So, whereas Sindhi nationalism had formulated a pluralism based on the teachings and histories of Sufi saints, Mohajir nationalism began to express its pluralism as a modern reworking of the ‘rational and scientific Islam ‘of Sir Syed Ahmed Khan, which sees spiritual growth as a consequence of material progress (derived from modern economics, art and the de-politicisation of faith). However, it still didn’t dent the party’s tendency to use militant tactics when needed.

A new Sindh?

In 2014, PPP co-chairperson, Bilwal Bhutto, organised a Sindh Festival on the site of Sindh’s oldest known civilisation, the Indus Valley Civilisation.

Using the popular perception that Sindhi culture was historically pluralistic, tolerant and deeply rooted in the traditions of Sufism, Bilawal used this acuity and its many artistic, literary, and social expressions to explain what (he thought) could be used as a cultural model (across Pakistan) to overwhelm the extremist mindset that has been ravaging the country for so many years now.

But unlike famous Sindhi nationalist and scholar, GM Syed, Bilawal was not just talking about an inherent and ‘indigenous pluralism,’ that is part of the Sindhi culture.

Syed’s ‘indigenous pluralism’ had meant a society that was spiritually close to God but politically materialistic; and thus, whose economic, political and social interests were best served by keeping its religious beliefs within the confines of the mosque and/or the Sufi shrine.

He thought this was vital because religious orthodoxy when used as a political and social tool becomes a weapon in the hands of forces that try to seize and neutralise a pluralistic society (like Sindh) by imposing a cosmetic homogeneity through monolithic concepts of society, culture and faith.

For example, to Syed and his contemporaries in Sindh’s intellectual circles, the kind of faith that was being advocated in Pakistan was alien to the Islam that has been practiced by Sindhi Muslims of the region for over a thousand years.

Syed’s indigenous pluralism was also suspicious of Western capitalism, but not in an intransigent manner.

He suggested addressing the onslaught of ‘soulless modern materialism’ on a social level with the help of Sindh’s traditional disposition and its inherent pluralistic and esoteric psyche.

But today, Sindh is changing. The Sindhi-speaking middle-class has expanded in the last three decades. Syed is still revered in the province, but he is not as relevant as he was till about the early 1980s. But the PPP still is.

Apart from being popular among Sindhi peasants and working-classes, the PPP offers the emerging Sindhi-speaking middle and lower middle-classes opportunities to attempt fulfilling their upwardly mobile ambitions.

Sindhis still see the PPP as the only nationwide party that is not only close to their ethnic roots, but is their best mode to keep in touch with the economics, sociology and politics tied to federal-level politics. Thus, voting for the PPP (by the Sindhis) is now more of a pragmatic move than an ideological one.

The Sindhi middle-class has grown rapidly in the last two decades.
The Sindhi middle-class has grown rapidly in the last two decades.

But the emergence of a larger Sindhi-speaking middle-class has also triggered social strife in the province. The youth among this section of the Sindhi-speakers see the PPP as a dinosaur associated with the politics of their parents.

However, there is no effective alternative. The PPP has continued to neutralise the Sindhi nationalists who have little or nothing substantial to offer anymore to the new Sindhi-speaking youth in terms of this youth’s more universal ideas of upward mobility.

Other parties, such as the PML-N and the PTI are still largely seen in Sindh as squarely peddling the interests of non-Sindhi businessmen and bourgeoisie.

But even though religious parties have remained to be weak in the province, certain social and economic fissures being caused by the rapid emergence of Sindhi-speaking middle-classes has also witnessed a very non-Sindhi phenomenon of religious radicalisation creeping in.

This is still a new phenomenon among Sindhi speakers. But one can relate it to the way Punjab’s middle and trader classes became overtly conservative from the late 1970s onwards, due to their growing exposure and engagement with conservative oil-rich Arab societies in the Middle East, and due to the economic benefits that they enjoyed during General Ziaul Haq dictatorship in the 1980s.

Of course, the Sindhis (from any class) did not enjoy much economic benefits from Zia. But a series of PPP provincial regimes in Sindh ever since the 1970s have helped shape the Sindhi middle-classes, and make them become more influential in impacting the electoral and economic dynamics of Sindh.

Conscious of this, Bilawal’s Sindh Festival was planned as a two-pronged strategy: First, to furnish Bilawal’s idea of a ‘progressive Pakistan’, and second, to address the trend of urbanisation in Sindh from going the way urbanisation went in the Punjab.

Bilawal Bhutto.
Bilawal Bhutto.

The cultural activities that were on display during the Sindh Festival suggest an understanding (or need) on Bilawal’s part of an urbanisation trend that should produce a progressive workforce and an economic, political and religious culture based on a healthy respect for diversity; instead of a culture based on economics tied to the politics of faith and sects.

Of course, many aspects of Bilawal’s thinking have a lot to do with youthful optimism and (for want of a better word) well-intentioned social engineering.

But PPP’s rejuvenation can now only be convincingly cemented if the party’s next step is steeped in an ideology that, though futuristic, is still rooted in the party’s past of being a large, all-encompassing progressive entity; and not on the amoral Machiavellian machine that it has become.


Related:

Islamabad hygiene drive: Blood, sweat and tears ... in your food

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The Islamabad administration was on the move yesterday. A plan was conceived, officers gathered, the Director General of Punjab Food Authority, Dr Sajid Chauhan and the famous Ayesha Mumtaz called for a briefing, and eventually, a coordinated action took place against all food outlets in the federal capital.

Many famous hangout places became infamous, infamous bakeries became notorious and factories which had employed underage kids as labourers, sealed – no, not for child labour, but for kneading flour with their feet; mixing, quite literally, sweat, tears and hair in what we have been consuming every day.

The evil does not lie only in the big kitchens where we fine dine; the horror stories lurking in Islamabad's outskirts are equally scary. Nishaa Ishtiak, Assistant Commissioner, Potohar, was out with a team consisting of a Medical and Sanitary Inspector in her jurisdiction, on the fringes of the federal capital.

She sealed four factories and four roadside hotels, and fined a pizza joint for reasons too gruesome for the stomach to handle. Owners were arrested and FIRs registered against the people responsible for producing unhygienic food items.

"Bakery products were laying on the floor next to cattle. These home-made factories are taking Churchill's words to heart and offering nothing but their sweat, tears and blood," said Ishtiak.

Pizza oil.
Pizza oil.
Not paint.
Not paint.

No one really cared for food hygiene and sanitary conditions until recently; well, to be honest, no one really cares for it even now. We are yet to have a system where food outlets are monitored regularly and graded according to a given standard. However, there is word that such a system might actually be under development.

Famous names like Chaye Khana and Savour Foods were sealed, although, word on the street would vouch for the cleanliness of some of these places. Whatever might be the case, in some of these well-known places of Islamabad, a one-of-a-kind coordinated action resulted in near panic among owners of various outlets and businesses, some of whom closed their business and stopped for the day before they could be raided.

Read on: Punjab's food hygiene drive will last only as long as our support will

Whitewash cum food.
Whitewash cum food.
Food (for wasps) – chocolate syrup and pizza.
Food (for wasps) – chocolate syrup and pizza.

The Islamabad Administration usually gives one a view of hopelessness, of lethargy and of nepotism.

Like most government institutions where corruption not only seeps from the cracks below, but also falls down like rain from the very top, the administration has had few well-wishers outside of its barricaded walls. Young and vibrant officers come and are molded into the decades-old ideas of "afsar-shahi," and soon, the famous rods replace proud necks.

Also read: Raids on eateries

There is much excitement about the action in the field, but whether it will bear any fruit in the long run is yet to be seen.

The capital has seen some absurd sudden policies in the recent past, such as the closing of shops at 8pm, then at 9pm, and then not bothering with it at all.

However, we need long-term solutions to our problems, not haphazard actions, which will eventually be forgotten and yield little to no result. It isn't rocket science to mobilise enough resources and create a functioning system of grades and have all food outlets display them on the door.

Well, here is a start. To finally have someone inspect and insure the safety of the health of our children, and our population at large is an extremely important first step. Let us hope it isn't the last.

— All photos by author

A 7-step guide for Pakistani victims of hacking and blackmail

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Pakistan has the highest teledensity (75 per cent) in the region and the cheapest rates for radio internet to have ever been offered (3G/4G LTE Data Plans for as low as $5/10GB). With over 40 million smartphone users, a very healthy chunk of the population is virtually online.

On the one hand, this is indeed a good omen, but on other, it also provides the rotten ones among us with easy and swift access to high speed internet, thus enabling them to carry out their activities with ease and impunity.

And as always, it is largely women who are at the receiving end.

If mobility and other restrictions weren’t enough, online space too, is now gradually becoming a forbidden entity for Pakistani women; in fact, to some extent, it has already.

The modus operandi of the proverbial rotten bunch is pretty basic – they set up multiple digital identities that allow them to collect personal information, mainly of women, in order to harass them online and in the real world.

A growing grey-to-black market of cheap and accessible software and hardware, furthermore, allows anyone to infiltrate mobile devices and computers, in order to track someone's social movements.

Needless to say, this places people, especially women, at great risk.


7 measures you can take to protect yourself

Here are the seven of the most efficient practices that a user should follow to a) avoid chances of harassment through the use of personal data, and b) take appropriate counteraction in case of being harassed online.

1. Choose strong passwords and change them regularly

Never discount the importance of password strength. Also, enable a two-step verification on all the online platforms that offer this feature (Facebook, Twitter and Gmail do); it serves as a crucial second line of defense in saving your online accounts if the hacker has successfully cracked your password.

As soon as you feel someone has used your account, change the passwords for all your accounts, not just the one that was hacked. Otherwise, it’s very easy for the hacker to follow a password pattern and get into your other accounts as well. You can somewhat avoid this by having very different passwords for each account.

2. Report to the authorities immediately

Once you have changed the passwords, report the hacking of your account to the relevant site. If you are unable to get back the control of your account, this will become even more important. All the larger websites normally do respond swiftly.

3. Alert family and friends

After reporting, it may take the site a little time before you get a response. Try to contact your family and friends to let them know of this occurrence so that they don’t communicate with your hacked account.

It is very Important to inform your family members, including your parents and guardians, of this, especially if you believe things could go awry later on. Having your family’s confidence before things take the wrong turn is crucial.

4. Do not cede to the blackmailer's demands

If the harassment has turned into blackmailing and the hacker is demanding money or anything else in return of your private data, do not hand over the money. Do not give in.

There is a high probability that they will try to blackmail you again, and you can never be sure that they have deleted all the copies of your private data.

5. Report the harassment to FIA — they are highly active

In case of cyber harassment or blackmailing, report to Federal Investigation Agency’s National Response Centre for Cybercrime. You will need to give them your details, as the NR3C doesn’t accept anonymous reports for obvious reasons.

This is a must, as you would want to have an official complaint lodged against the criminal. FIA’s NR3C department is very active and prompt in dealing with such cyber crimes, and will possibly be the best agency that can help.

5.1 In case you are a minor, ask your guardian to lodge the complaint on your behalf. You can also get help from friends or teachers who can lodge a report on your behalf, if you don’t want to involve your family.

5.2 Remember, reporting the crime isn’t only important to safeguard yourself against future harassment – it will ensure that no one else is subjected to the troubles you endured.

5.3 You can report the cyber crime by either filling the online form or sending them an email with all the required information along with the evidence of harassment (screenshots of conversation or logs of e-mails) to this e-mail ID: Helpdesk@Nr3c.Gov.Pk

5.4 It is also important to note that threatening calls do not come under the mandate of Nr3c. To address this issue, one needs to lodge a complaint to your nearest police station.

6. If your friend is a victim, extend support

For peers of the victim, it is essential to support the victim of cyber crimes, as most don’t receive support from their family while going through the trauma of cyber harassment.

For the victim: if you cannot take your family in confidence in case of blackmailing, contact your friends or anyone else in your support system. You will probably find someone who will be able to help you with correct guidance and support.

7. Try to locate the attacker if possible

Family and peers also need to help the victim reach out to the authorities of the university, college, workplace, or any other institution which you think the attacker belongs to. As victims are usually terrified in these situations, it is important for peers and the family to take charge and report to any official agencies and places where the hacker(s) works at, if known.


In case you need further information or assistance, you can always refer to the Hamara Internet website. It has a knowledge base on how to deal with online harassment.

Hamara Internet is part of a Pakistani campaign initiated by the Digital Rights Foundation, which aims to protect Pakistani women against cyber harassment and promote a better understanding of using secure internet and mobile technologies.

The lack of support and a belief that they will be unsafe if they speak out, impacts the already small portion of the female Pakistani population that has access to the internet, as families will often try to restrict further access, once these cases are reported.

Access to the internet has become vitally important for women, not just in Pakistan but around the world, as a means of expressing themselves freely, and to also seek out educational and economic opportunities.

To deny or discourage Pakistani women from gaining access to the empowering platform of the internet is something that the country cannot afford. It is essential that the government and civil society work together to raise awareness about digital security amongst the general populace, with a focus on strengthening the legal support framework against cyber-crime.

However, rather than implementing vaguely-defined legislation with lots of loopholes and room for abuse; and that can see minors as young as 10 years old being prosecuted, the government and civil society must work on massive awareness initiatives and legal remedies that are proactive and provide safety, support and confidence to victims.

The capacity to tackle and solve the problem of cyber-crime and cyber-harassment in all their forms must be built upon strong foundations, if we are to deal with cyber-crimes in their infancy.


For further information on online protection:


Patriotism — How much is too much?

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When the nation was busy preparing for its 50th Defence Day, a September war was raging on social media. It is remarkable how a few simple questions about history can reduce us to our baser instincts and waylay us of the ability to reason without offending or being offended.

In this war of irrationality, patriotism was being confused with jingoism and McCarthyism; and reasoning with petulance, bitterness and unjustified anger. But, this wasn’t the first time we witnessed such anger. Only recently, Bollywood released the trailer of the film Phantom and we lost it, again.

The negative reaction to the film was understandable, but things got really ugly when we started attacking our own for choosing to differ with us. That’s not how a country, already haunted by the ghosts of terrorism and extremism, is supposed to behave. And it certainly shouldn't be publicising every ridiculous movie made on Pakistan. It says something that even after our efforts, this film bombed on the box office.

Also read: Faisal Qureshi’s rant targeting Saif Ali Khan is not ‘patriotism’

When it comes to glimpses of intolerance in our society, they are never hard to come by. But, in this particular case, there was an added factor behind the harsh reaction:

This year, the BJP government had decided to celebrate India’s ‘victory’ in the 1965 war with a carnival. While the reaction of the Pakistani state was calculated and intelligent (like organising a martyrs’ day ceremony in the General Headquarters in Rawalpindi), to certain fringe elements, Pakistan needed to react in kind.

Pakistan observes Defence Day on 6th September each year, the official date of the start of the war. So, whoever disagreed with the version taught in schools came under severe criticism. When those being ambushed finally decided to reply, the angry exchanges reminded us of the war between Lilliput and Blefuscu.

To me, it doesn’t matter in the least whether we won or lost in the war. In fact, if we are even discussing it today this fervently, it shows we have allowed saffron India to define us. Just like Nazi Germany, the BJP-RSS’s India is culling dissent with the help of war hysteria and carnivals, and to its great joy, we oblige by compromising our own space for free speech and inquiry.

That’s not all.

There is another serious casualty here: Cyber trolls perhaps do not understand the significance of their own work. Whenever they attack people with a different point of view, they in fact make it harder to market patriotism.

What patriotism is not

A cursory glance at the realities of life in Pakistan will tell you that the weapons-grade jingoism and McCarthyism you come across is not patriotism. I call it weapons-grade because it is weaponised, lethal and can easily kill people.

There are countless examples around us already.

Jingoism is an outcome of obsession. Patriotism is not obsession. McCarthyism is an outcome of hate and fear bordering on paranoia. That, too, cannot be patriotism.

What patriotism is

In my humble view, patriotism is nothing but love. Love for your homeland, love for your country.

Just like I have a sense of ownership for my house, which leads me to ensure its safety and betterment. I feel the same loyalty towards my country.

When you are in a defining moment of your history, it is only natural to witness a tussle between different ideas, versions of history and visions for the future. So this debate about the outcome of 1965 war could be expected.

Yet, both sides fail to understand that in the bigger, more crucial, existential struggle: they are on the same side.

We consider the contemporary phase of history as the defining moment because we are literally fighting the forces of darkness here. To the terrorist, moderates like you and me, and religious scholars who do not condone their methods, all are heretics and therefore worth killing.

And the fight we know is far from over.

As the state has finally begun to reassert itself and the enemy is squeezed hard, there is a much-needed emphasis on rebuilding. Amid all these developments, another vacuum needs to be filled.

Since its very inception, the country has used a religious narrative to identify itself. And this policy has backfired badly in the past decade. Not only are extremist forces trying to undermine our state, using the very same religious narrative, we have still failed to evolve a more organic narrative, free of ideological trappings.

Which is to say, there is a need for an open-minded approach towards the state and the society. This cannot be stressed enough. The value of national symbolism, though, is also of critical importance, as it can harmonise the society and lay the foundation for a sustainable culture.

The role of the Pakistani liberal and moderate

In the past 67 years, as the state has pandered to extremist tendencies, the moderates and the liberals have faced crises of faith and betrayals of trust. Even when the state decided to finally confront the extremists, the moderates have been targeted and killed in broad daylight.

This pervasive insecurity is behind the bitterness and cynicism you see in this class.

The moderates are convinced that something will soon go wrong and the state will resume the support of the same fanatics who have caused so much pain and suffering for the state and the society. But in case you haven't noticed, here is the thing: the extremist ideology does not work for the state anymore.

If the moderates dare to overcome their cynicism and the trust deficit, and tactfully stand up for their values, an alliance between them and the state is almost a foregone conclusion.

On the other hand, the state is facing a crisis of faith of its own, as it confronts multiple challenges:

  • Its right wing allies are all gone. Even if someone from the right wing ventures back, the evident purpose is not to help the state, but to obtain concessions for the forces that are attacking the state and its people.

  • While it combats the terrorists, a hostile India seems only too willing to challenge its existence.

  • And then, there are mounting expectations of the allies that it will not only prevail against the domestic terrorists but also help stabilise the region.

Meanwhile, a lot of blood has been spilled, and there is incredible pain.

In this situation, liberals and moderates can either shrug their shoulders and say, ‘told you so’, or help shape the future.

If we manage to lay down the foundation for a democratic and open society, parochial issues like differences over the versions of history will sort themselves out. Right now, the need for working together is more urgent.

Read on: Pay up, Pakistanis: Tax-exempt patriotism won’t cut it anymore

Hope for an open society

If you are an incorrigible optimist like me, you will notice that the seeds of an open society are already around us. In many ways, the terrorists have made things easy for us.

Today, institutions are strengthening, and parliamentary democracy is taking root. We have a ferociously independent media. After seeing so much blood, the common man on the street is wary of violence and the philosophies that justify its unrestrained use.

There is widespread thirst for knowledge, economic activity and progress. Today’s Pakistan is better integrated with the world. Cultural activities, art and literature after remaining offline for a decade, are coming back online. For someone with a mission, it is exceedingly easy to educate people and sensitise them.

For me, there are two ways to affect change: you could either offend the common man’s sensibilities or try to shape it. All that is needed is a lot of patience and a little bit of tact.

Back to patriotism

Today, patriotism can work as cure. In the past 67 years, there were repeated attempts to bulldoze diversity in the society. But over the course of those years, federating units grew a common bond between themselves.

Today, the people of all provinces are more alike than you think. So a Pakistani identity doesn’t essentially come at the cost of our regional, lingual identities. In fact, identifying with the state can help in further preserving them.

The state, too, needs to realise that the desire to see absolute conformity to its views is the reason why it very nearly lost control to the extremists.

A state that takes pride in its cultural and intellectual diversity can never be accused of being a hard state. It only gets stronger, instills a sense of ownership among its people and earns strong popular support.

Let us then stop the disbelief and outrage, and work to build a more patriotic and open society.

My experience: The unbelievable feeling of being at the US Open

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There was some Pakistani interest in the doubles draw in 2011 thanks to Aisam-ul-Haq Qureshi, our country’s lone flag bearer on the Grand Slam stage. —Photo by author
There was some Pakistani interest in the doubles draw in 2011 thanks to Aisam-ul-Haq Qureshi, our country’s lone flag bearer on the Grand Slam stage. —Photo by author

I have been losing sleep these past two weeks; staying up late, consuming way too much caffeine, setting my alarm for early morning hours and jumping out of bed at the first bell.

If you are a tennis fanatic, like me, living in any of the Asian time zones, you know exactly what I am talking about.

The US Open.

With the year’s final Grand Slam at the home stretch and my life revolving around the TV screen, I cannot help but reflect on my higher quality viewing experience twelve months ago.

I was at the US Open last year. I made the trip from Boston and did not think twice before spending at least two weeks’ worth of graduate student lunch money to book the tickets.

Located in Queens, the most unassuming borough of New York, the Billie Jean King National Tennis Center stretches over 46 acres of land. The neighbourhood surrounding the complex sharply contrasts the grand spectacle inside.

Walking through Flushing’s not so picturesque Corona Park, a massive unisphere welcomes you to the tournament venue. But you don’t need a big sign or an extravagant fountain at the entrance to indicate where the action is. The huge crowd flocking in and queuing up at the front gate, eager to see the tennis, is a good enough indicator.

The US Open is by far the grandest stage in tennis. —Photo by author
The US Open is by far the grandest stage in tennis. —Photo by author

I waited excitedly in line but once I made my way past security and proceeded towards the grounds, I needed a minute to soak in the atmosphere. Posters of past champions were hanging on poles one after the other, the day’s order of play was up on the big screen and familiar tennis faces were casually walking around carrying their bags.

I referred to the occasion as “Grand Slam Heaven”, as reminded by my Facebook post back then.

The US Open is by far the grandest stage in tennis with the Arthur Ashe stadium, which accomodates more than 22,500 spectators, the largest tennis stadium in the world.

Not just a tennis tournament

The tournament had built a new thirteen-hundred-seat viewing gallery above the five practice courts and I, for one, could not be happier making full use of it in its inaugral year. Not even my lodge box seat inside Arthur Ashe stadium could beat the front row looking down at the five adjacent practice courts. It was by far the best spot in the house.

One after another top players made their way to the courts, accompanied by their team of coaches, trainers and practice partners. Inches away from the long-limbed Venus Williams, the muscular Serena, a relaxed Roger Federer and stern-faced Andy Murray, I found myself shifting to the edge of my seat, observing their every move and capturing it with my purple Cyber-Shot camera.

Striking the ball so cleanly, they covered the court effortlessly and played with less intensity than we are used to witnessing in a match.

I reluctantly placed myself in the middle of a mob of aggressive Federer fans and blindly stuck out my autograph book, which the Swiss maestro swiftly signed. —Photo by author
I reluctantly placed myself in the middle of a mob of aggressive Federer fans and blindly stuck out my autograph book, which the Swiss maestro swiftly signed. —Photo by author

In the middle of a Grand Slam, I do not recall seeing any player take to the practice court for more than an hour, especially if they had a match scheduled the same day. Acclimatisation to the courts, warming up for a match and ironing out any chinks in the armour seemed to be the order of play for most, at least for the duration of Week One while I was there.

They say a camera adds ten pounds. This assertion could not be any truer for professional tennis players. Those who usually come across as ripped and bulky super-humans on the television screen seemed athletic, lean and toned in real life. They made errors, chitchatted between rallies and appeared human, not just some TV phenomenon, for a change.

For a city that never sleeps, the tournament truly comes to life at night. Inside the stadiums, the atmosphere is electric. It doesn’t matter if you are sitting way up in the bleachers or at eye level with the steely Novak Djokovic, you can feel the energy and the buzz.

The tournament itself epitomizes all that is American: gigantic stadiums, loud music, blinding lights, generous food helpings, commercialisation and passionate sports fans. It strikes a balance between respecting tennis etiquette and appealing to the average American spectator, so accustomed to offering colourful commentary during a basketball play or having snacks thrown at them in the middle of a baseball pitch.

As if world class tennis is not enough, regular big screen attractions like the “Kiss Cam”, where you have to kiss the person sitting next to you once you appear on screen, commercial messages from sponsors, lucky draw giveaways, seat upgrades and dancing drunk spectators, keep the tennis non-purists entertained.

It is a carnival and not just a tennis tournament.

Meeting the stars

Because the higher-ranked players assume the status of rock stars, insulated from the madness, you will not find them strolling around the grounds without multiple bodyguards. A fenced enclosure right next to the practice courts’ entrance is where the most passionate fans patiently wait in the heat for their favourite players to stop and sign autographs.

I reluctantly placed myself in the middle of a mob of aggressive Federer fans and blindly stuck out my autograph book, which the Swiss maestro swiftly signed.

However, I had to make less of an effort to get a picture with the 2001 Wimbledon champion Goran Ivanisevic, who I randomly bumped into inside the tunnel of Louis Armstrong stadium. The tall Croat went onto mentor Marin Cilic toward his maiden Grand Slam title the following week.

With Lindsay Davenport. —Photo by author
With Lindsay Davenport. —Photo by author
With Goran Ivanisevic. —Photo by author
With Goran Ivanisevic. —Photo by author

Former world number one and French Open champion Carlos Moya, who enjoyed the tennis limelight in the late 90s and now helps the current Spanish players, only needed shades and a cap to camouflage himself amongst the walking crowd. My friend and I did a double take before we approached him with a photo request.

There was some Pakistani interest in the doubles draw thanks to Aisam-ul-Haq Qureshi, our country’s lone flag bearer on the Grand Slam stage. Our patriotic spark ignited, my friends and I made sure we let our presence felt on the outside courts with our outrageously loud chants. It was not enough, however, to prevent Aisam’s early exit in both the men’s and mixed doubles events.

After a week of “Grand Slam Heaven”, I begrudgingly had to come back to normal life.

And, as I now resume my sessions in front of the TV screen for the remainder of the tournament, last year's countless pictures, a half-filled autograph book and a US Open shirt constantly remind me of what I am missing out this time.


Saba Aziz is a former Pakistan number one women’s tennis player and Fed Cup team member. She graduated from Boston University with a Masters in Sports Journalism on Fulbright Scholarship. In 2012, Saba was listed in Newsweek’s top 100 women who matter in Pakistan. She tweets @saba_aziz.

How the private schools' fee hike is holding education hostage in Pakistan

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—Illustration by Mir Suhail for the Kashmir Reader, republished with permission.
—Illustration by Mir Suhail for the Kashmir Reader, republished with permission.

Many of you must be aware by now, a protest movement has begun in Punjab against the recent fee hikes in private schools. These schools, among the country's most prestigious, have suddenly increased their fees without any explanation or argument, and expect students to pay up or pack up.

Parents have taken to the streets in Lahore, Islamabad and Sahiwal, voicing outrage at these inordinate increments that do not correlate to the current economic climate.

The schools under discussion here are among the most popular, top-tier 'brands' of education. They have numerous branches in almost every city across the country, and are the kind of places parents usually clamour to get their children enrolled into.

At first, there was an introduction of a withholding tax that has now become part of the outrage, which ranges from Rs20,000/year up to 50,000/year.

This, on top of the fees they are already paying. Tax-filers will theoretically be able to get a return on these taxes, but to non-filers, this amount is sunk. This is not how you incentivise taxation, but this is not strictly a schools’ problem.

To be clear, people are not lamenting three to four-figure fee bumps that come into effect annually (those are understandable and factor into teachers’ and staff’s cost of living increases).

Instead, what's outraging parents is the recently levied increments of between 15-20 per cent (varies from school to school). These were enforced without any notice, justification or even consent.

What is the reason behind the hikes, parents want to know. Surely, schools cannot just slap on massive accruals without any economic justification, and then expect parents to keep filling in their coffers because they have no other option?

Haemorrhaging money — How private school fee structures operate

In order to get into these schools you will be charged an application fee, after which they charge you a registration fee (not the same thing apparently). Then, they charge a security deposit and an advanced monthly fee. Some schools even have a category of “annual charges”. I am told the latter are for covering the costs of school trips, etc.

So far, you will have spent around Rs100,000 to 150,000 without your child having set foot in the school. Understandably, junior classes are cheaper, that is how they reel you in and start slapping on ludicrous markups annually.

Then there is the actual fee; the cheaper ones go to Rs8,000/month, the expensive ones up to Rs20,000/month, and the average residing around Rs12,000/month. That is scheduled for an annual increment as is, on top of the amount you will pay for stationary, books, notebooks, uniforms, transportation, and the miscellaneous expenses that go with it.

All in all, you are looking at educating a child for upwards of 400,000/year!

Buying prestige — The right transaction?

The one counter-argument that is surfacing is, “don’t send your child to such an expensive school if you cannot afford to.” This is vulgar rhetoric. Schools have no set pattern for increments, so you cannot plan ahead for situations when they suddenly hit you with fee hikes that require a second income to fulfill.

Educating children is not a matter of making the right transaction for parents; they are not looking for the best deal, they are looking for a long-term relationship. Some schools certainly care about their students, but their emotions are tethered entirely to the parents’ ability to keep up with their ever-evolving fee structures.

Moreover, schools with branches (read franchises) all over the country suffer from a lack of consistency. You cannot take a student from one city to another and then expect the child to pick up on everything without a hitch.

There are entirely different cultures between these branches, yet, exactly the same fee structures. You will pay the same amount in Karachi as you will in Sheikhupura and will never have a child with the same academic prowess. This is another pitfall of running academics strictly as a business.

There are certain schools that have always been expensive. Parents know that they are buying prestige, and they can afford it. These parents are not the most vociferous on this subject, so their example is also rendered obsolete.

I discovered that there are people teaching at schools who consider five days off a year a great deal, even though a very few make a decent living as teachers. There are schools that fine a full day’s salary for coming in five minutes late. Annual trips getting delayed on account of security issues is also a prevalent issue, their amounts getting refunded is not.


So private schools are doing everything to pinch every penny anywhere they can. How they keep hiring teachers and children enrolled is beyond my understanding. These places should have been shut down at the first sign of such misconduct.

Presently, parents are protesting these increments en masse, and have a big protest scheduled in Lahore on Monday.

There is also news of higher-ups taking notice and demanding regulation, but there has not been any action so far. Everything is proceeding as usual, while the schools happily hold children’s education hostage — they know that parents will eventually pay whatever the schools want.

Then, there are schools who have set fees and a very strict admission criteria – they make sure to only take in students who can ensure high results. This artificially inflates the school’s performance/results, and its market, because at the end of the day, parents just want to enroll their children into a school with the best opportunities.

Education is important, and raising children requires sacrifice, so you should understand that things are bad when parents refuse to pay fees unless regulations are set in place.

Without regulations, this behaviour seems incompetent at best and extortive at worst.

6 best camera apps to indulge the photographer in you

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We are all photographers, or at least that’s what our smartphones want us to become.

With powerful camera lens technology packed into smartphones, the need to carry dedicated digital camera has reduced for common photography enthusiasts.

Both iOS and Android devices come with some default camera app installed, but many of these apps lack the features or variety that more experienced photographers are after.

If you want to take or release professional-level snaps, there is good news: a plethora of third-party powerful camera apps are available on the iOS App & Google Play Store. These go beyond the barebones that come pre-installed, but learning how to operate them can be a challenge.

Below are some of the best, most customisable and easy-to-operate camera apps for iOS and Android:

iOS

1) VSCO Cam (iOS & Android)

It is one of the featured apps on both the iOS and App Store for photography buffs to use. It offers multiple features, including the ability to edit, capture and snap photographs within the app. It comes with a minimal interface, and is easy to use.

VSCO tools within the app allow for fine tuning, with the goal to complement, not define, your photographs. VSCO Cam’s editing and filtering options are first rate with a variety of professional presets available at the user’s disposal to tweak their photos.

It comes integrated with VSCO Grid, where people all around the globe share their exceptional photographs, giving you the freedom to follow and find the ones alluring to your taste.

There are in-app purchases too for both iOS and Android, giving you even greater control of your snaps.

Download for iOS here
Download for Android here


2) Camera+

Camera+ is an iOS exclusive and a paid app costing $2.99. It is one of the bestselling apps on the iOS App store, featuring a clean, well-designed interface, offering the ability to stabilise your images, touch exposure and focus, digital Zoom, clarity and scene mode and so forth.

It offers killer editing features for your photographs, which includes highlights, shadows, contrast and much more. Camera+ allows you to tinker with exposure compensation in places where it is difficult to take photographs for example a darker area, etc. The ISO and shutter speeds being utilised are viewable at every given moment of time.

Download for iOS here


3) Manual

Limited to iOS, Manual is a paid app that costs $1.99. It offers the freedom to independently control a variety of features that are Shutter, ISO, White Balance, Focus and exposure compensation.

Photos taken can be directly saved to the camera roll, offers dark and light themes, along with an EXIF viewer. The best part about Manual is that it is easy to use and does not involve a steep learning curve as with other photography apps.

Download for iOS here


Android

1) Google Camera

With various iterations of Android available from the Google Nexus to Samsung, HTC, Sony and so forth, camera apps vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Enter Google Camera, a free app available on the Google Play Store that can do the bidding for barebones to advanced photography.

It offers an easy interface with its material design interface inspired by its latest OS release Lollipop. Lens blur allows to control the camera’s depth of field to focus on the subject in the foreground and blur the background.

Photo Stitching allows users to create panoramas, wide angle and fisheye images with Google’s photo stitching technology developed exclusively for Google maps. It is compatible with phones using Kitkat 4.4 and above.

Download for Android here


2) A Better Camera

A Better Camera is a free app on the Google Play Store with the option of in-app purchases. It has a wide array of features on offer which include capturing high resolution photos with effects, with built in HDR and Panoramic mode, Multishot: Group portrait, Sequence shot, Removing unwanted objects with one click, Night mode, ISO option, Burst and expo-bracketing.

Download for Android here


Instagram

Owned by Facebook and probably the most popular smartphone photograph sharing app on the planet, Instagram is free to use on iOS and Android.

With various built in filter modes available at your disposal for your photographs, it is integrated with social media sharing features to share to Facebook, Twitter and to your followers alike.

Instagram allows to improve photos with 10 advanced creative tools to change brightness, contrast and saturation as well as shadows, highlights and perspective.

Download for iOS here
Download for Android here


Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, September 13th, 2015

On a mobile phone? Get the Dawn Mobile App: Apple Store | Google Play

The flip side: Imagining a cricket world without the toss

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Abandon the toss in Test cricket?

Yes, the proposal has come from Ricky Ponting, and is being backed by Michael Holding and Steve Waugh. The novel suggestion, aimed at reducing the home advantage, includes handing the decision to bat or bowl to the visiting team captain.

Given majority of the teams in recent years have been winning Tests in their own backyard – where ground staff usually prepare tracks favouring the home cause – the idea, though plain, sounds interesting.

Take a very recent example: England’s booming win in the Ashes Test at Nottingham.

The million dollar query here is: had England batted first on that ultra-seaming pitch where Stuart Broad’s eight-for smothered Aussies for 60 in the first session of the match, would the hosts have met the same fate? In response the hosts piled up 391 as the conditions eased up a bit.

The 3-2 series triumph for Alastair Cook, following a resounding innings win by Australia in the final Test at The Oval, indicates it could have been an entirely reverse scenario had Michael Clarke won the toss at Trent Bridge.

Not to forget the hurtling Mitchell Johnson alongside ever-improving Mitchell Starc were there to exploit the conditions.

So, was it the toss in Nottingham that decided the Ashes, allowing England to make full use of the well-known home conditions? If one the answer is an absolute yes – or even a tentative one – it gives rise to a major contention: has the flip of the coin, overtaking a player's skills, become the primary factor in determining the outcome of a Test match?

If it has, why not abandon it?

“That's not such a bad thing. At the end of the day I think there's probably too much emphasis placed on the toss and the conditions away from home. I don't mind the authorities looking at some other options,” Waugh says.

Pakistan batting great, Javed Miandad, looks the other way.

“Toss is good for cricket. It gives way to a lot of discussion on television and radio. Everyone remains attached and curious from the time when the coin is in the air till a captain wins and takes a decision to bat or otherwise,” Miandad told APP.

He further said that winning or losing the toss could also impact preparations of a home side so it is equal for the two playing teams and therefore there was no logic to abandon it.

Let us now examine the pros and cons of the novel notion.

Pros first.

If the touring team skipper decides whether to bat or bowl first, it will definitely lower any extra advantage that the host side may have at a certain venue on a certain pitch, particularly one which changes (or can change) over five days of play. This situation is likely to generate close battles and the likelihood of drab draws will diminish. Players will be forced to improve their game.

Secondly, connected to the first point, the visiting teams will have very less room to complain about the pitch to home team cricket authorities (including the curators), excessively favouring the hosts. Touring captains will have very little to hide behind during press conferences.

Thirdly, after getting the right to bat or bowl first, touring captain, coach along with the entire squad will make more preparations for away Tests, knowing with the tactical luxury they would have only themselves to blame if they suffer a Nottingham-like loss.

Similarly, the hosts’ camp, kept guessing by the visiting captain until match day, will also make extra endeavours in order to play harder, resulting in more competitive cricket.

Imagine how much demanding the task would be for Steve Smith if Cook, in a highly unusual call, opts to bat first on a sizzling Perth track in the next Ashes and his manage to score big in the first innings.

The quality of the game, one cautiously feels, will rise.

Fourthly and lastly, the proposed no-toss scenario will make the game’s international framework equal for all, giving teams fair chance to outsmart the opposition: a visiting skipper possessing the right to decide to bat or bowl in away Tests, will relinquish the same right to the opponent captain when his team undertakes the tour of the rival country. Home sides will be put under pressure as a result as opposed to the tourists.

Now to the cons, some emphatic ones.

To begin with, those challenging the idea will say that if the toss is thrown out, chances are that the game will become predominantly conventional taking away the captivating element of surprise upon winning or losing the toss.

Touring captain will know the peculiarity of the venues, and so he along with his player and team management will make a plan in advance. There will be no on-the-spot eleventh hour adjustment – an exciting factor in any sport. Only at the venues where playing conditions vary too much the touring side will be in a slight fix whether to bat or bowl first.

Secondly, when the game plan, or at least its outline, is prepared in advance the selection of visiting squad will also be made in accordance with that very plan. Introduction of new faces will be rare, selectors will hesitate in taking risks, and will be choosing new players mainly on the basis of their domestic performances on the home pitches those lads are going to face in the away Tests. The bulk of the strategy will be dependent on ‘where we are going to play in that country’ rather than relying on promising youngsters’ flair. A chunk of cricket’s natural exuberance, it is feared, may well be compromised in these circumstances. The world may miss Steve Smiths, David Warners, Yasir Shahs, Sarfraz Ahmeds, Joe Roots, Hashim Amlas, Dale Steyns, ABs, Kumar Sangakkaras, Virat Kohlis and Brendon McCullums in the time to come!

And not just tourists, even the hosts would be figuring out -- prior to the start of the game -- what the opposition may decide on the first day; after all it’s their den! So inherent tactics and counter tactics would be less to spot, and the game may get too much mechanical.

Furthermore, in this entire semi pre-set scenario, there are strong chances that spectators as well as TV audience will move away from Test cricket which is already facing rising challenges from the slam-bang commercially-attractive Twenty20 Internationals and national leagues plus a plethora of 50-over-a-side clashes producing results within hours.

And in a rebuttal to the level-playing-field for all, claimed by those calling to get rid of the toss, one has all the right to ask: if the toss is no more, then what about the quality of a team outdoing the opponents on their turf regardless of winning or losing the toss (currently, South Africa hold an impressive record in away Tests)? Who would recognise them? Who would be called the world’s top-ranked Test outfit if there is no toss? What set of criteria will be devised by the ICC for ranking Test teams? And looking at it widely, how will the remarkable yesteryear teams who excelled under Waugh, Imran Khan, Viv Richards, Clive Lloyd and Ian Chappell in away Tests be then compared with the current and future squads?

Last but not the least, abandoning the toss in Tests can be a double-edged sword, giving rise to pitch-related debates. Nature and condition of the pitch is considered crucial in Test cricket. Home sides are likely to produce dead tracks if they fear conditions going against them which will mean the ICC would have to step in.

Interestingly, the MCC, the game’s law-making body, has discarded the idea forthwith. “The MCC feels that ‘the toss’ is an integral part of a game of cricket, and that, since the Laws of Cricket apply to every game at every level throughout the world, the Club is most unlikely to change the Law in dispensing with the toss,” Laws of Cricket Advisor Mark Williams said.

Showing his concern over the dearth of quality Test players in present world cricket who should have the calibre, dedication and grit of their predecessors, Miandad rightly pointed out: “Test cricket means putting players to test in some tough conditions. I believe the test of a player begins when he is made to play in alien conditions. A quality batsman or bowler can perform everywhere; whether he is at home or away.”

Bottom line: the idea of giving the touring team leader the licence to decide is a matter of radical significance and therefore requires a thorough, technical and candid analysis. Any hasty and half-baked decision in this regard will spoil Tests matches – the essence of cricket. One earnestly hopes the ICC and boards of Test playing nations will take this into account.

How meeting Laado changed me

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A couple of months ago, we were assigned the task of identifying an underrepresented community in Pakistan as part of a project for an Anthropology course. I thought the Khwaja-Sira community was a good example of a social group that has rarely had a narrative of its own.

Thus began the search for members of this community, in order to engage with them personally and better understand their experiences.

Our project focused on the disparity in their sources of livelihood; their work ethic involving, on the one hand, begging in the name of God, while engaging in sex work on the other. Our task was to examine this cleavage (if it were that) in their belief system.

Our search for Khwaja-Siras ended when we met Laado at her house in Chararh Pind (a slum in Lahore). As we arrived, she came out in a skintight black shalwar kameez and welcomed us inside her one-bedroom house.

On the front wall was a noticeably large-size portrait of Laado herself, posing in a manner many would deem inappropriate in our society. A little while later, I realised that there were similar pictures of her all around the place.

The neighbourhood of Chararh Pind.
The neighbourhood of Chararh Pind.
Laado's house.
Laado's house.
The house was colourful.
The house was colourful.

I knew Laado, like any other Khawaja-Sira, would be more than comfortable in talking about the role of faith in her life, and particularly in her experiences as a beggar. But the other half of the question, she would be hesitant to answer, because of the stigma attached to sex work in the Pakistani society.

I thought it made more sense, then, to start off talking about her routine, especially because it was Ramazan.

Also see: Pakistan’s transgender community rolls out 700-foot national flag

In these initial discussions, we found that Laado not only fasted but also prayed regularly. She told us that she maintained a strong belief in the power of a ‘mannat’, and a Sufi shrine was the go-to place for when things seemed to get out of hand for her.

When we inquired about her aspirations in life, she told us that her biggest wish was to finance the Hajj of her parents.

It was clear, faith held a central importance in Laado's personal life. Often, she would feel the need to pray in testing times, but got lax once they were over – she told us this with embarrassment and a guilty smile.

‘It is exactly the same with us,’ I couldn't help murmuring.

I realised that for the first time, the ‘otherness’ and ‘abnormality’ of her existence had shrunken visibly in my eyes. Listening to Laado speak, I felt a sameness between the two of us, which I admit, wasn't present when I first started to talk to her.

Interviewing Laado and other transgenders.
Interviewing Laado and other transgenders.

To my surprise, we did not have to pry hard about Laado's life as a sex worker. She offered to show us pictures of her birthday. The pictures introduced us to Laado’s guru, her ‘mother’, her neighbours and her ‘special friend’. The conversation led to a more detailed discussion about Laado’s special friend.

As it turned out, Laado's relationship with a man is dependent on his ability to provide financial support. A Khawaja-Sira, we learned, would sever all ties with him if he is incapable of providing this support. From what I gathered, these men are supposed to give their partners (the Khawaja-Siras) a monthly allowance – this was a fundamental pre-condition for these relationships.

But that is only a sliver of what these relationships mean to Khawaja-Siras. While I conversed with Laado, I spotted a man's name tattooed on her left arm and a noticeable burn on her right arm. I asked her about it.

Me: Aap kay haath pe kia hua?

Laado: Bewafai ki nishani hai

She was referring to her ex-boyfriend, who had cheated on her and had become ‘friends’ with another transgender, so she hurt herself. Apparently, every time she was betrayed by someone she was emotionally attached with, she turned to self-infliction. Her ex-boyfriend was also torn out of some of her birthday pictures.

Narrow streets and small houses.
Narrow streets and small houses.
A shop in the nieghbourhood.
A shop in the nieghbourhood.
Interviewing Laado and other transgenders.
Interviewing Laado and other transgenders.

At one point, Laado recounted how she surprised her boyfriend on Valentine’s Day. She described how she decorated the room with roses and candles and wore a red dress. Her enthusiasm was noticeable when she got around to describing the arrangements she made for the surprise.

It was clear, her relationship had had an intense psychological and emotional impact on her. While her face lit up recalling the pleasant memories, the fight had driven her to tear away his pictures and even harm herself.

Also read: Being queer was not always a crime in Pakistan

She had aspired for a life-long relationship that ended with her boyfriend’s insincerity – it made me wonder, how is this different from any relationship between a man and woman? In fact, this is the understanding that led her to share her story freely with me.

Ladoo's story struck my very core. The sense of difference and distance existed more in my mind than in hers.

More often than not, we look out at everything through a very small window of bias and that is our problem. It is these perceptions that stand between every Laado of Pakistan and her basic human rights.

—All photos by author


Related:

An Indian and a Pakistani in 'desi' Tanzania

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I came from India to Dar es Salam last year, to join in the efforts of my organisation to improve quality and market access of cocoa commodity in Tanzania. Saad flocked in from Pakistan around the same time, on an Acumen Global fellowship to help Husk Power (an Indian social enterprise) expand in East Africa.

An Indian and a Pakistani together in Tanzania – we thought our desi mannerisms would ill-fit here. That is, until our host city revealed itself to be more desi than us.

“Dar”, as it is called by the locals here, is the commercial capital and the largest city in Tanzania, and amongst the largest in East Africa. Formerly known as Mzizima (healthy town), it is a unique coastal city with sandy beaches and beautiful people. It's current name literally translates to "The residence of peace".

Currently, it is home to over four million people and a culture that is overlain with clear Indian, Arab, African and German influences. If you are a desi and planning to move to this wonderful city, Saad and I have put together a list of 10 reasons why this place is home away from home:

1. Bollywood

In his cute Afro accent, my colleague Benjamin stuns the living lights out of me when he suddenly chirps:

Don ko pakarrna mushkil hi nahi, na mumkin hai.

After a good laugh, the two of us got to discussing our mutual love for Bollywood. Indian films are big here. So much so, Bollywood movies release on screens across Dar (with English subtitles) on the same day as they do in India!

60 per cent of the channels on the cable TV network are desi, PTC and Star Plus topping the list. I also found a channel playing Bollywood dubbed in Kiswahili (or Swahili) their local language.

All desis swear by Bollywood and aloo kay parathay, both of which we get aplenty here.

Men watching TV in a hall at Kibindu village. On the wall are posters of Serena Williams, not tennis-related though.
Men watching TV in a hall at Kibindu village. On the wall are posters of Serena Williams, not tennis-related though.

2. The Chaos Theory

We, the desis, are proud of our offensive driving skills and think it would be a cakewalk with no bikes, cows, and people on the roads. But wait till you get to Dar, here, traffic rules are redefined for the desis of the subcontinent, by extension, you will also learn how to cuss in Kiswahili.

Much like it is back home, traffic is a real struggle here. No matter where you headed, there will always be more people with you on the road trying to get to their destination quicker than you. At such times, it feels you never left your Delhis/Karachis/Dhakas behind.

And oh, also, they have rickshaws, but here they're called 'bajajis'.

Hum apna watan dil mein le kay chalte hain

Bajaji – the cooler, hipper sibling of the rickshaw.
Bajaji – the cooler, hipper sibling of the rickshaw.

3. “I’m just five minutes away”

Our beloved phrase, “bas paanch mint”, comes in handy at Dar, where punctuality is as much a sin as it is in our homelands. Plan a meeting at 10am and do not expect the guest to show up at 10. Ever.

The Kigomboni Beach, on the other side of Dar es Salaam.
The Kigomboni Beach, on the other side of Dar es Salaam.

This place moves at a snail's speed. A coastal city which is just as happily laid back as the tourists on its beaches. Food delivery too takes ages here, conversations take eons, practically everyone is doing “kula bata” (Swahili expression for “chilling out”).

The most commonly used Swahili saying around the city, “haraka haraka haina baraka”, literally translates to “speed has no blessing” and applies to most activities around the city, formal and informal.

This man literally has his time upside down, a sign of just how much punctuality matters in Dar.
This man literally has his time upside down, a sign of just how much punctuality matters in Dar.

4. Waterlogging

For an entire week, I watched Indian media go bananas while reporting the waterlogging in Mumbai and how life had come to a standstill. Pakistan too, hasn't been very different this year.

Well, good news buddies, it’s no different here. Two hours of rainfall and you'll feel like you're wading through the puddles on a street not in Dar but the town that you grew up in.

Funny drains – these ditches on the roadside don't lead to anywhere.
Funny drains – these ditches on the roadside don't lead to anywhere.

4. Chai bora (best chai) and Chapaati

Every occasion here, casual or formal, is incomplete without a cup of chai. Chai wallahs, chapaati mamas (older women making chapaati) and stalls making your favourite dhaabay walay parathay sweep across the streets of Dar.

No gathering is complete without a cuppa. On my evening run, I often see a bunch of young men and women just hanging out, talking while sipping tea and munching on cookies and chapaati.

If you're the typical desichai fanatic, safe to say you're in good company here. Keep calm and chai on!

Chai, paratha and strategy – just another night in Dar.
Chai, paratha and strategy – just another night in Dar.

5. Kiswahili — Not lost in translation

Gari/gadi, basi/bas, safi/saaf, salaam/salama are amongst those few Kiswahili words which mean exactly the same as their like-sounding in Hindi/Urdu.

Tanzanians are proud of their language and love it when an 'alien' tries to put in that extra effort in becoming a local. Desis find it simpler to learn this beautiful language and make new friends. In fact, it feels as if you’ve just moved from one city in Desiland to another, and are having the initial hiccup adjustment period. Far from foreign!

6. Traffic cops trained in Desiland

My third week in Dar ... 'Stop! Stop! Stop!' And I did.

I didn't have the faintest of idea as to why I was put at halt. Despite the green signal, I managed to spot a lady in uniform suddenly change her hand gesture, which was an order for the traffic on my side to stop.

I was on the edge of a zebra crossing, it turned out I had committed an offense and was asked for a 1000 USD fine. WHAT? I managed to get away with 2000 shillings (1 USD).

Thankfully, my experience with traffic cops back home came useful here. I drove off smiling, grateful for my desi upbringing. Back in India, I would never get a traffic ticket, no matter what. Saad tells me its the same in Pakistan.

Dar has lots of female cops. You wouldn't want to mess with them.
Dar has lots of female cops. You wouldn't want to mess with them.

7. Voilà! Zeera and dhaniya

I almost had tears in my eyes on discovering crushed mirchi and savory smelling garam masala stacked in a local store. While it’s easier to find spices in a supermarket in videsh or pardes, the easy and frequent access is a deal-maker. Whatever you're cooking, you'll never run out of spices here.

For sale: Elephant dung – it said to cure a few diseases. Quacks have a good market here.
For sale: Elephant dung – it said to cure a few diseases. Quacks have a good market here.

8. Desi food in demand

Moti Mahal, Delhi Darbar, Mamboz, Upanga Club are just a handful of names that serve excellent desi food. From Kerela appams to Punjabi cholay, you get all of it in Dar.

These restaurants aren’t only popular amongst desi expats, but more often than not you can spot Tanzanian families and other foreign faces on the next table, relishing these delicious dishes full of pili pili (spicy) with as much delight.

Biryani in Dar. —Creative Commons/Daisukeimaizumi
Biryani in Dar. —Creative Commons/Daisukeimaizumi

9. Mosques and temples all on one street? Can’t be pardes!

There’s a whole street commonly known as Kisutu Street in the city centre, proxy donated to India and Pakistan. An evening stroll in this chaotic street will once again transport you to Desiland.

With the enticing smells of pani puris in Mithaiwala, the masala dosa of Chappan Bhog and the kulfis at Nazir Pan House, you won't be missing any of the essential delights of sub-continental street vendors.

Tanzania's Shri Swaminarayan Mandir.
Tanzania's Shri Swaminarayan Mandir.
Street art graffiti in Dar es Salam.
Street art graffiti in Dar es Salam.

At Kisutu, the sight of people having food in their cars one would remind you of Bahadurabad Chowrangi in Karachi. The atmosphere turns more homely with the sounds of prayers being said at the mosques and Hindu temples on the adjacent street.

Similar to Kisutu, Upanga, another locality in Dar, is populated by Tanzanians of Indian and Pakistani origins.

10. Cricket

Let the weekend come around, then witness the Boom Booms and Master Blasters come out to play. People will tell you they won't be able to join you for the weekend because they have a cricket game to play. It's that serious here. Arrangements for of cricket grounds and even floodlights for day/night matches is common in Dar.

Now what can be more desi than that?

So come to Dar es Salam because you're more than Karibu (welcome)!

A cricket game in progress under floodlights.
A cricket game in progress under floodlights.

Text: Ritika Sood
Photos: Saad Latif


Ritika Sood is from Shimla and carries her roots with pride but is an explorer at heart. She consults development agencies on strategies for improving lives. Ritika moved to East Africa a year ago and has found new love in cocoa farms.


Saad Latif is a power industry professional from Karachi who is spending a year in Tanzania as an Acumen Global Fellow, learning how rice husks can be used to generate electricity.


Food Stories: Naan Khatai

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Naan Khatai is the quintessential desi biscuit; with a predominately melt-in-the-mouth texture, it is as addictive as the greatest addictions out there. One of my fondest memories of the naan khatai is those of the evening tea at my home. I could easily devour half a dozen in one sitting, and coupled with a hot cup of tea, there truly was no better indulgence.

Growing up in Karachi, a daily trip to Crispo Bakery was a must. Bread, eggs and papay were bought fresh every day, unlike my current pantry hoarding in the west. There were many a days when a special treat of naan khatai, zeera biscuit or patties snuck itself into the bakery purchases.

The effervescence of cardamom and pistachio combined with fresh baked flour and butter, roamed the house drawing out all the occupants to the lounge area for naan khatai indulgence.

The Hobson Jobson: A Glossary Of Anglo-Indian words and Phrases describes the naan khatai as;

Nuncaties: Rich cakes made by the Mahommedans in W. India, chiefly imported into Bombay from Surat.

Needless to say, nuncatie is what the British called naan khatai, the literal meaning of the word comes from the Persian word naan meaning bread and the Afghan word khatai meaning biscuit; hence, bread biscuit.

Some sources say that khatai means six in Persian, referring to the six original ingredients used to make the naan khatai.

An article titled Naan Khatai Cookie, written by Jennifer Bain, Food Editor at the Food and Wine section of the Toronto Star, says the following:

This popular cookie from the [subcontinent] is salty, sweet and eggless, writes Janaki Subramaniam of Scarborough. Naan is Hindi for bread, she explains, while some historians claim that khatai is Persian and means six, the original six ingredients in the naan khatai [of the sixteenth century], namely flour, eggs, sugar, butter or ghee, almonds and toddy as leavening agent.

Subramaniam says the cookies date back to the 16th century when Dutch explorers [the original spice traders] ran a bakery in Surat, India, and later sold it to a local employee named Dotivala. The bakery then started serving poor locals instead of Dutch expats, but since the locals wouldn’t touch toddy (sap from a palm tree used to make an alcoholic beverage), the bread often sat unsold and became dry and crispy, and a few locals starting dunking it in some kind of hot beverage. The bakery seized on the idea of turning it into cookie-sized morsels without egg or toddy, and the deliciously simple Naan Kathai was born.

Further research led me to believe that Dotivala, the owner of the bakery, started selling the stale bread to the underprivileged at discounted prices. The public is never short on ideas and started buying the stale bread and began the trend of dunking it into a hot beverage (after its arrival in the subcontinent), and quickly, it became all the rage.

Seeing its popularity the savvy Gujrati businessmen, changed the shape of the bread, oven dried it and called it Irani Biscuit.

Interestingly, they also observed that the popularity of the Mughlai cuisine was because of its fusion and evolution from other cuisines, especially from a strong influence of Persian cuisine. Hence, they changed the packaging and marketing technique of the biscuit, keeping the ingredients almost the same and calling it by the Persian influenced name of naan kathai (bread of Cathay or Chinese Bread, as a similar bread was called in Persia at the time).

The popularity of the biscuit caught on and it started being transported to the markets of Bombay, since the city housed a very large Gujrati population. Naan kathai became a favourite to be consumed at tea times, and as it became increasingly popular in the north, the cooks started doing away with the eggs and toddy, increasing the quantity of the butter/ghee for added fluffiness.

When it was time for me to make naan khatai, I obviously wanted to make them closest to the taste of Pakistani or North Indian naan khatai, infused with cardamom and pistachio. The outcome was absolutely delicious. Here it is, from my kitchen to yours.

Ingredients

¼ cup semolina (sooji)
¾ cup unsalted butter
1 ¼ cup flour
½ cup and 1 tbsp. of powder sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
½ tsp. to ¾ tsp. cardamom powder
2 tbsp. crushed pistachio or almonds (I prefer pistachio for it gives a very authentic taste)
1 egg yolk

Method (makes 10-12)

Sieve the flour, adding sugar, semolina and softened butter, mix the ingredients well.

Add vanilla, cardamom, pistachio into the dough and knead, until it makes a soft crumbly dough. Divide into 12 equal portions, forming little dough balls and pressing (with hands) into a flattened little biscuit-shaped disc.

Refrigerate discs for 40-50 minutes. Remove, brush top with egg yolk, and set in oven, pre-heated at 350 degrees, for 12-15 minutes.

Remove promptly (note: they will be very soft when removed from the oven but will completely harden once entirely cool), and set on wire rack to cool.

Once cool, store in an airtight jar, if they last through the hour that is. Enjoy with a cup of garam garam chai!

Follow our weekly Food Stories here.


—Photos by author.

Migrant or refugee? Why it matters which word you choose

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Across Europe, a debate is raging about how to describe the thousands of people escaping war and turmoil in their own countries and making the journey to safer places.

Are they refugees or migrants?

The question is important: since European leaders have been justifying inaction over their plight by dismissing many of them as “economic migrants” who are less deserving of help.

Al-Jazeera has made a firm decision on this issue, announcing that it will stop using the umbrella term “migrants” when referring to the refugee crisis in the Mediterranean.

By choosing the term “migrant” over “refugee” (where the latter would be accurate), the choice denies the person their internationally recognised human rights, under the UN Refugee Convention.

But Al-Jazeera also noted that the very meaning of the word “migrant” was changing. What was once a basic description has now come to carry negative connotations.

This kind of semantic degrading is common for words relating to controversial topics. We need only think of the endless cycle of terms used to describe people with disabilities, which often develop into insults and are eventually replaced.

In the early stages of a meaning change there is a tendency for people to resist the new interpretation, by claiming that they are using the dictionary definition. But dictionaries do not merely define words – they also describe how they are used.

If a negative meaning develops this will be listed. For example, the definition of “villain” has shifted from meaning someone of low-born status “villein”, to the current understanding of evil.

Loaded words

At any one moment in time there are a range of terms available to describe human migration. The use of one name over another involves a choice and also carries information about the speaker’s opinion towards those they are describing.

For example, when people talk about “expatriates” or “expats”, they are often discussing affluent people, who have moved to another country. As Mawuna Remarque Koutonin argues, they are usually from the same country as themselves and often white.

British nationals constitute the second largest group of European foreign born residents in Spain. Most moved there looking for a better quality of life, enabled through the lower cost of living. They are “economic migrants”, but this term is not used to describe them in the UK. Instead, it is most commonly used to refer to people moving from less affluent countries, both inside and outside the EU.

One way we can demonstrate how terms have specific geographical associations is by noting which words occur most frequently alongside them.

If we look at the use of words relating to migration in contemporary American English we see the following sets of associations for six of the most frequent naming choices:

Words most commonly associated with six of the most frequently used naming choices. —Corpus of contemporary American English
Words most commonly associated with six of the most frequently used naming choices. —Corpus of contemporary American English

As the table shows, the word “expatriate” co-occurs with “American” and “British”, while “immigrant” does not. The nationalities occurring simultaneously with the word “immigrant” are “Mexican” and “Chinese”. And the most frequently co-occurring word is “illegal”, which also occurs with “migrant”.

Naming is a choice which reflects not just a process, but a view of that process and the people involved. This becomes yet more evident when considering the terms “immigrant” and “emigrant”. Which could be dismissed as simply relational antonyms, reflecting two perspectives of the same process.

However, looking at an older version of American English we see that while the use of the name “emigrant” has decreased over time, “immigrant” has increased.

Historical changes in the use of the words ‘immigrant’ and ‘emmigrant’.  —Corpus of Contemporary American English
Historical changes in the use of the words ‘immigrant’ and ‘emmigrant’. —Corpus of Contemporary American English

Historically, “emigrants” referred to people who moved to America in the 19th and 20th Centuries from Ireland, France and England. The difference then is not due to the perspective from which the speaker regards migration; it is a difference of identity. “Immigrant” tends to refer to “others”, while “emigrant” tends to refer to “us”.

The consequences

There are differences in the meanings of the words used to describe migration and they are largely in interpretation. But in the end, what is in a name?

Does the choice of one over another make a difference? As a linguist, I am bound to say yes, but in the case of migration the choices made have very real implications.

The expression of particular attitudes by powerful voices will have an effect on the attitudes of others.

So when the Australian government promotes the names “illegal arrivals” or “illegal maritime arrivals” to refer to those seeking asylum, there are consequences.

The Associated Pressdropped the term“illegal immigrant” in 2013 and The Guardian has similarly questioned its use of the term.

When people are deemed “illegal” – particularly by officials – it erases our shared humanity. Things that are shared are discarded in order to highlight only differences – “they” are not like “us”.

That makes the debate over the “right” term to use in relation to human migration controversial. Naming choices reflect differing attitudes and can have detrimental consequences.


This article was originally published on The Conversation.

Nanga Parbat — A symphony in white and blue

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Nature in Pakistan has always fascinated me, both as a Pakistani and a photographer. It is my strong held belief that my country is second to none when it comes to lush landscapes, snowy mountains and beautiful people.

Fairy Meadows and the Nanga Parbat base camp had been on my wishlist for a long time, so imagine my delight when all of a sudden, things started falling into place. I took a leave from work, and was all set to go with my friend’s touring company on what I knew for a fact would be a beautiful ride.

We set off via the Karakoram Highway, which is a marvel of its own. Scenic views sped by us as we arrived at the Raikot Bridge. From there, our way ahead was on jeeps, and so began a more adventurous and rather perilous leg of our journey; about an hour and a half of sharp turns, uneven roads and precipitous climbs.

Karakoram Highway.
Karakoram Highway.
Trek towards Fairy Meadows.
Trek towards Fairy Meadows.

That was just the beginning. After the 90-minute adrenaline-pumping jeep ride, was a 4-5 hour trek to Fairy Meadows. Ordinarily, when you’re trekking towards Fairy Meadows, you can see Nanga Parbat looming ahead like a colossal giant raising its head.

On that specific day, though, Nature had something else in store for us.

For the entire five-hour trek, clouds hovered over us, at times drifting around us, like a veil in front of the great mountain, concealing it from our view.

Nonetheless, the magic of the landscape around us did not diminish. Every step of those five hours was worth it.

Trudging and traipsing along by the end, we finally arrived at Fairy Meadows, exhausted and out of breath, but realising how aptly named it is; the clouds still in front of us, mountains on both sides and the beautiful green valley where we stood – it was a scene right out of a fairy tale.

Trek towards Fairy Meadows.
Trek towards Fairy Meadows.
Trek towards Fairy Meadows.
Trek towards Fairy Meadows.
View from Fairy Meadows.
View from Fairy Meadows.

I sat down on a bench to rest my tired legs, and saw a white peak at my eye level peeking out from behind the clouds. I had heard stories of the grandeur of Nanga Parbat, but this glimpse of its peak did little to impress me.

It seemed much smaller than I had anticipated. As I was mulling over this disappointment, the clouds slowly began moving away. And that's when I gaped at it wide-mouthed; how mistaken I had been.

What I had assumed to be the peak of Nanga Parbat was actually nothing but a small part of its lower half. The clouds lifted very slowly, revealing bit by bit, the most breathtaking view I’ve ever seen. It was like a curtain being slowly raised to reveal the most magnificent, glorious stage to a mesmerised audience.

Nanga Parbat.
Nanga Parbat.
A view of Nanga Parbat in the morning.
A view of Nanga Parbat in the morning.
Trek towards basecamp.
Trek towards basecamp.
Bayal camp on the way to Nanga Parbat.
Bayal camp on the way to Nanga Parbat.

I was so spellbound that after taking a few photographs, I let my camera hang around my neck, and just focused on only taking in this very moment.

The clear sky lasted for only 15 minutes, but those few minutes were like a divine revelation. The clouds came back and for the next two days, the rain kept us from moving forward.

View from “View Point” trek towards base camp.
View from “View Point” trek towards base camp.
View from “View Point” trek towards base camp.
View from “View Point” trek towards base camp.
View of Nanga Parbat from the it’s base.
View of Nanga Parbat from the it’s base.
Night views of Nanga Parbat from Fairy Meadows.
Night views of Nanga Parbat from Fairy Meadows.

The weather cleared on the third day and we set off once again on a six-hour hike towards the Nanga Parbat base camp.

We started at sunrise, hiking over slippery glaciers and pearly white, snow-covered ridges. The basecamp gave us an even closer view of the Nanga Parbat. We then set back towards Fairy Meadows to get there by sundown.

A local of Fairy Meadows.
A local of Fairy Meadows.
Cricket audience.
Cricket audience.
Another picturesque scene at Fairy Meadows.
Another picturesque scene at Fairy Meadows.
Fairy Meadows.
Fairy Meadows.
The cricket ground.
The cricket ground.
Nanga Parbat.
Nanga Parbat.
Nanga Parbat.
Nanga Parbat.

How the hijab has made sexual harassment worse in Iran

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Every day I take a stroll on my way to work. From Tehran’s bustling Vanak Square, buzzing with traffic and commuters, to Jordan Street, a popular two-way avenue parallel to Valiasr, Tehran’s main artery. This is the heart of north Tehran, where cabs leave at every hour of the day and night. Adjacent to Jordan is Gandhi Street, boasting brand new shopping malls and western-style cafes.

I take a small, relatively quieter street lined with the offices of insurance brokers and doctors. Tall trees, planted at irregular intervals, shield me from the blazing sun. Just a few metres away from the honking, throbbing melody of the city, Sanaei Street is charming.

Save for the relentless sexual harassment.

Sometimes it is just stares. As I am walking down the street, I see him coming across me. He is several metres when I am already cringing. I lower my stare, or look away.

I want to close my manteau - the medium-length, light jacket worn by some Iranian women instead of a chador - to avoid his snooping glare, but it’s too late.

As I walk past him, I feel his piercing eyes looking for my breasts under my thick cloak, sizing up my figure with acute intensity. Riveted to my body, they follow me up until I feel them burning my back as he is already behind me. There isn’t even the slightest pretence of hiding: the ogling is unabashed, both nonchalant and full of aplomb.

Every so often, there are sounds.

As he walks by, he turns his head towards me and slams his tongue against his palate. Or kisses the air loudly. There are so many shades of whistling, hissing, smacking, licking, puffing that I am amazed at the capacities of the human mouth.

Sometimes it comes from behind me: a hiss directly in my ear. Sometimes it’s a last-second move as we walk past each other, like a snake suddenly sticking out its tongue. Every time, it is the same hideous expression of unhindered lust sending shivers through my spine.

Oftentimes, it is words too.

Fortunately, my Persian is not good enough to grasp the profanity thrown in my face. Or maybe I don’t want to know anyway.

In the end, it makes little difference: the way those words are tossed at me in the air, with a peculiar expression on the guy’s face, sleek eyes and upper lip slightly turned up, that is part of universal language.

I can only guess he is commenting on my outfit or my body, inviting me to his home or just calling me a prostitute. Verbal aggression does not need even rough translation. This is the most basic form of bestial communication.

And other times, it’s more than that.

I’ve had numerous instances of men following me in their car on my daily walk, chatting me up, trying to convince me to get in.

Once it happened in Velenjak, an affluent and quiet neighbourhood in northern Tehran. We were four women, when a man in a car started stalking us.

No matter how much we cursed him or ignored him, he continued his pursuit for more than 10 minutes until we decided to enter a café. Cars are not the only means of locomotion for hunters: scooters, mopeds, motorbikes make the chase even more flexible.

Sexual harassment in public places is a reality of every day in Iran. At first, I thought my foreign looks and my somewhat liberal style (vivid colours, open manteau, scarf thrust to the back of my head) made me a target. But when I opened up to friends, I realised this is a ubiquitous reality for young women of all styles and backgrounds.

“Growing up in a Muslim country where the hijab is not mandatory, I have always been told: the hijab is there to protect women from men’s desire, because our body is ‘awra’ (intimate parts of the body that should be covered) that can spread ‘fitna’ (chaos) among men,” says Sahar, a 26-year old non-Iranian who has been studying in Tehran for a year. “But then I came to Iran, where hijab is mandatory, and I am still harassed in the streets. Men aggressively stare at me, talk to me, call me names. I feel naked, and worthless.”

Nor did changing her clothing solve the problem. “I believed wearing a chador would protect me,” she says. “But one day, I witnessed other women wearing chadors being harassed. I realised that whatever I wore, men would still chase me, just because I am woman.”

Aisha, a 23-year old chemistry student, explains: “Girls and boys are separated from primary school to the end of high school. They never have a chance to interact and when they suddenly do, they can’t just make normal conversation. It’s like any interaction is implicitly on sexual territory.”

I often wonder what goes through the heads of these men. Is it the pure pleasure of the game? Or is there an actual expectation that catcalls or stalking will yield results?

“I remember when I was younger, young boys and teenagers used to catcall and follow us just to meet girls,” says Aisha. “Because we live in a society where there is no space for men and women to meet and communicate freely, they took to the streets. At first girls liked it, they took it as a compliment, but after a while, it became a problem. Boys and men openly expressing their sexual desire made us feel insecure and exposed, and there was nowhere to escape it.”

This is an argument I’ve heard many times from men here. Driving by, whistling, catcalling, inviting her to get in: this is how men ‘pick up’ women.

In the absence of bars, clubs or any place to socialise, streets, parks and public transport become the public playground for flirting.

Except that sexual harassment is not flirting.

It’s more like hunting, with the whole city becoming a giant hunting ground. For women, walking in the street can become an excruciating, fearful experience.

“I feel deprived of one of my favourite things in Iran: walking alone,” says Sahar. “Every day, when I leave home, I wish for one thing: to be left alone. Because of this, I started taking cabs, even for a five-minute ride, just to avoid these encounters.”

Sitting by oneself in a park or on a bench is seen as an open invitation. Lucille, a 20-year old French student who recently came to Iran, tells me a story: “Once, I was peacefully sitting under the shade of a tree in a park when a man asked me if it was okay for him to sit next to me. I was surprised he even asked, and thought he genuinely didn’t want me to feel uncomfortable about him being there. I was dead wrong. As soon as I said yes, he sat down and started pressing me with thousands of questions and asking for my number. I told him I wanted to be left alone but he didn’t stop. Eventually I got up and left.”

The hunting happens everywhere in broad daylight, with the tacit approval of all - including the very authorities supposed to protect women. There is no risk in this hunt.

The feeling of incapacitation and helplessness for women is overwhelming. “It gives you a feeling of powerlessness because it seems that, since they aren’t physically attacking you, you don’t have a right to do anything to them,” says Lucille.

The irony of a system that goes to great lengths to “protect women’s bodies” is that, while harassers are acting freely, stalking and groping under the eyes of all, the moral police is arresting women for “bad hijab”, skimpy manteaus or tight leggings.

In the same Vanak Square where I face regular catcalling and stalking, the moral police routinely apprehends women for immodest clothing. The sexual predation right under their eyes seems of no concern to them.

There is, however, one thing a woman can do to avoid sexual harassment. The magical wand to ward off men is simple: another man.

“You absolutely don’t get the same kind of unwanted attention,” says Aisha. “It’s as if a man is a weapon to defend yourself. It’s a deterrence mechanism. It’s assumed he ‘owns’ you, as your relative, boyfriend or even just a neighbour, so no-one is allowed to bother or touch you.”

I’ve noticed it too: whenever I am escorted by a male, I suddenly become the invisible being I yearn to be. “Basically, a woman shouldn’t walk in the street without male protection,” rages Sahar. “If she walks alone, it means that she is looking ‘for it’. This is a society made by and for men.”

So, what do men have to say?

“I think that most men who are hanging out in the streets have no understanding of the implications of their actions,” says Lucille. “They probably don’t have a clue that calling out women and staring at them and whistling qualifies as sexual harassment.”

When I ask male friends, I face a range of reactions: embarrassment (usually expressed in tactics to change the subject), justification (“this is not harassment, but flirting”), and recognition (very rarely).

When I push harder and confront them with the reality of the psychological burden borne by Iranian women, my insistence is mostly met with blank stares or denial.

Women also prefer to remain silent most of the time. “This is still taboo in our society,” complains Aisha. “We hardly discuss it, even with close friends.”

My sense is also that these daily interactions have become so habitual that most women don’t bother to bring it up, unless there is a special instance of outright groping for instance.

“Should we disappear? Should women just disappear?” asks Sahar.

This is a feeling many women have shared with me: the desire to become invisible, to suppress one’s physical being in order to avoid the intrusive, defiling daily looks, hisses, words and gropes.

And there is a surprising, even chilling, paradox. As we hide every part of our body short of our faces and hands, sexual harassment does not decrease: it increases. It’s open season for hunting, all year round.

By arrangement with The Guardian.

Should we worry about the Megabats in Sindh?

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This Sunday, as I scanned through the morning papers, I was struck by this large pictorial feature on the Karachi section of Express Tribune. The headline screamed, “Megabats take over fruit trees in rural Sindh”, with the story going on to say that these “scary” and “uninvited guests” with wing spans of more than four feet are “eating up all the mangoes and dates” in the katcha areas of Piryalo.

Scary. Yes. But not as scary as the large picture of a young man proudly posing for the camera while holding one of these megabats.

What he obviously does not know, and what is nowhere mentioned in the story or by Mr Taj Mohammad Shaikh (Sukkur’s deputy conservation of wildlife, who has been quoted in the story), is that the megabats – also called large flying foxes or fruit bats – can sometimes act as reservoirs and vectors for a range of diseases and viruses which are potentially lethal to humans and other animals.

They don't always do that. Most often, if they are carrying a virus, it is not easy for it to be transmitted to humans. But sometimes, they do spread disease; fatal disease, even epidemics. And these are cases that, no matter how infrequent, one should be careful or even worried about.

What diseases can fruit bats cause?

Some recent research, for example, has raised the very scary possibility that fruit bats (possibly the ‘hammer-headed bats’ in southeastern Guinea) may be a natural reservoir for Ebola and may have been the mechanism by which the Zaire strain of Ebola virus was transported some 3,200 kilometres to Ivory Coast in West Africa.

That might have been so because the fruit bats (suborder: Megachiroptera; family: Pteropodidae) seem to be able to carry a number of zoonotic virus strains without themselves showing any signs of infection.

Life cycles of the Ebolavirus. —Wiki Commons
Life cycles of the Ebolavirus. —Wiki Commons

One should, of course, be careful in extrapolating too much, since Ebola has been linked to African variants of the megabats. Although these flying foxes are known to migrate over very long distances (in the 1,000 kilometre range), our immediate concern should be about diseases associated with Asian variants of the megabats. These can be equally frightening.

For example, the genus Pteropus (which, unfortunately, is the one known usually found in South Asia, including Pakistan) is known to be a carrier and reservoir of Hendra and Nipah henipaviruses. These are scary things. They are fatal in humans, as well as other mammals.

Infection starts as fever, headaches and drowsiness, with influenza-like symptoms, and can cause severe and often lethal respiratory illness and encephalitis; in some cases, inflammation of the brain leads to disorientation or coma, and around half the cases end in death.

Nipah is the virus that inspired for the 2011 medical horror film, Contagion. These viruses have broken out in recent years in Australia, Malaysia, Singapore, India and Bangladesh. In Bangladesh an outbreak of Nipah, linked to the megabats, infected over 200 people and killed around 60 in 2004-5.

Other, even more scary viruses that we suspect could be carried by the megabats include SARS and Marburg. There are no known cures for any of these.

The need for vigilant action

Enough about the scare. The fact of the matter is, we do not know if the megabats in Piryalo carry any of these – or, for that matter, any – viruses. Fruit bats are native to our region, and from the report, not unknown to those who live in the area.

The first and very urgent goal should be to find out more. Experts in public health and wildlife conservation should be assessing the situation and inspecting the species that has descended on Piryalo, not a local farmer posing for the camera with a dead megabat.

Here is what we do know:

We know that these megabats can migrate over very long distances. They can appear suddenly and in large numbers (in the hundreds). That is what is being reported in Piryalo. We also know that often, those numbers are precursors to even larger numbers of megabats descending on a region (in the tens of thousands). That seems to have not happened yet.

We know from the pictures from Piryalo that it is, in fact, Megachiroptera– megabats or flying foxes – that we are talking about. These are an ancient species (which probably explains why they carry such deadly viruses without being affected themselves).

Some have wondered whether they should be seen as ‘bats’ or ‘primates’, because their faces resemble that of a small dog, and typically they do not echo-locate, but use their large eyes and a sense of smell to find the fruit they so like to eat.

In case it is the ‘Indian Flying Fox’ ...

We do not know this for sure, but it is highly likely that the pictures from Piryalo are of the ‘Indian Flying Fox’ or Pteropus giganteus; a species found all over South Asia; from Bangladesh and beyond to India, Nepal and Sri Lanka, and across Sindh and the Punjab in Pakistan. Like the ones reported in Sindh, this species is frugivorious (eats fruits) and, like most Pakistanis, is especially fond of mangoes.

If, indeed, it is the Indian Flying Fox, then there are three things we should know: (a) they are not an endangered or threatened species; (b) they could soon be roaming across other parts of Sindh and the Punjab; (c) unfortunately, they are a known natural reservoir of disease including Hendra virus and Neipah virus and possibly of coronaviruses that have sometimes been linked to SARS.

All of these are serious causes of concern.

The bats are doing just what they're known to after arriving and settling into a region: Farmers and fruit growers complain that their crops are being destroyed. The smell, the noise and the parasites that come with them beceome unbearable. We also know that this nuisance can quickly grow unbearable and possibly escalate to disease (often via another animal).

That is what happened in the small rural outpost of Gayndah in Queensland, Australia, in 2011.

What began as less than a hundred megabats showing up, soon grew to more than 100,000 who were “defecating on Gayndah from the sky, stripping the trees and urinating into the town’s water supply.” Soon, there was the spectre of disease looming over the town.

At the same time, Gayndah also reminds us that megabats have significant ecological benefits, which include better pollinating and propagating the very fruit trees that they first destroy.

It is just proximity to these megabats that causes concern for humans, in terms of both human health and species conservation. The best solution is often to find ways to move the megabat colonies away from human habitation.

While we shouldn't panic, we must certainly take immediate action.

Someone needs to spread the word in the local communities on what to do, and what not to do – handling dead megabats would be an obvious “not to do.”

Someone needs to contact the appropriate experts, to help determine whether this is benign or potentially worrisome, to help figure out what can or should be done.

This is what local government should be doing, if there were a local government. This is a matter of public health, of wildlife conservation, and, yes, of education. There is too much that we do not know, which we should try to find out. But there is also enough that we do know.

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